Tukuche | 1980 SW Ridge
A Japan expedition to Tukuche in 1980 via SW Ridge, led by Tatuo Morimoto. Summit reached on 28th September 1980. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1882 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | TUKU80301 |
| Peak ID | TUKU |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Tatuo Morimoto |
| Sponsor | Miyazaki University Alpine Club Himalaya Expedition to Tukuche |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 5th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-09-11 |
| Summit Date | 1980-09-28 |
| Summit Time | 1130 |
| Summit Days | 17 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6920 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(11/09,4900m),C1(24/09,5200m),C2(27/09,6200m),Smt(28/09) |
| Route Notes | Tori - 13 Oct 80 Almost 2 weeks from BC to C1 because of difficult icefall with 900m fixed rope and because bad weather. Went to summit on 28 Sept in 3 groups: 1st group on top 11:30 am, 2nd group at 11:45 am and 3rd group at noon. Left C2 5:15 am and returned to C2 at 3:00-6:00 pm. Sherpas to C1 6:00 pm. Ang Temba little frostbite. No accident or illness. Climbed SW Ridge. 1st ascent this route. Kondo & Ikada - 19 Aug 80 Leave 22 Aug for Pokhara by road. 6 members now in KTM and 1 today to Pokhara to hire porters. All leave Pokhara 23 Aug with 40 Porters. Arrive BC after 7 days to Tukuche village and 10 days then French Pass. BC north of NE Col at 4500m Route = SW Ridge from NE Col on Japan Dhaulagiri map 3 camps above BC C2 at NE Col 5877m C3 at point 6690m 3 weeks climbing = summit about 1 Oct 4 Sherpas above BC; sirdar = Ringi No oxygen at all. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448156 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Akira Baba | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Saga-shi, Saga, Japan | Public official (of prefecture) | Details Other expeditions |
| Masato Ikeda | M | 1957 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Computer engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigenori Kamio | M | 1953 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Kiyotake, Miyazaki, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshio Kondo | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan | Postgraduate student in agricultural economics | Details Other expeditions |
| Tatuo Morimoto | M | 1928 | Japan | Leader (until BC) | Miyazaki-shi, Miyazaki, Japan | Public official | Details Other expeditions |
| Akira Nakahara | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Odawara, Kanagawa, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Shuichi Torii | M | 1942 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Miyazaki-shi, Miyazaki, Japan | Unemployed book salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Takayuki Ushigima | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto, Japan | Agriculturalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Kusang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ringi Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TUKU80301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. | - | - | 55:272 (1981) | - |
| TUKU80301 | MM | - | - | - | 77:11 (Jan 1981) | - |
| TUKU80301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198127201/Asia-Nepal-Tukuche-Southwest-Ridge | - | - | - |