Tukuche | 1980 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Tukuche in 1980 via SW Ridge, led by Tatuo Morimoto. Summit reached on 28th September 1980. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1882
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TUKU80301
Peak ID TUKU
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tatuo Morimoto
Sponsor Miyazaki University Alpine Club Himalaya Expedition to Tukuche
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-09-11
Summit Date 1980-09-28
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 17
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6920
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/09,4900m),C1(24/09,5200m),C2(27/09,6200m),Smt(28/09)
Route Notes Tori - 13 Oct 80 Almost 2 weeks from BC to C1 because of difficult icefall with 900m fixed rope and because bad weather. Went to summit on 28 Sept in 3 groups: 1st group on top 11:30 am, 2nd group at 11:45 am and 3rd group at noon. Left C2 5:15 am and returned to C2 at 3:00-6:00 pm. Sherpas to C1 6:00 pm. Ang Temba little frostbite. No accident or illness. Climbed SW Ridge. 1st ascent this route. Kondo & Ikada - 19 Aug 80 Leave 22 Aug for Pokhara by road. 6 members now in KTM and 1 today to Pokhara to hire porters. All leave Pokhara 23 Aug with 40 Porters. Arrive BC after 7 days to Tukuche village and 10 days then French Pass. BC north of NE Col at 4500m Route = SW Ridge from NE Col on Japan Dhaulagiri map 3 camps above BC C2 at NE Col 5877m C3 at point 6690m 3 weeks climbing = summit about 1 Oct 4 Sherpas above BC; sirdar = Ringi No oxygen at all.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448156
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Akira Baba M 1951 Japan Climber Saga-shi, Saga, Japan Public official (of prefecture) Details Other expeditions
Masato Ikeda M 1957 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Shigenori Kamio M 1953 Japan Exp Doctor Kiyotake, Miyazaki, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Kondo M 1952 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Postgraduate student in agricultural economics Details Other expeditions
Tatuo Morimoto M 1928 Japan Leader (until BC) Miyazaki-shi, Miyazaki, Japan Public official Details Other expeditions
Akira Nakahara M 1956 Japan Climber Odawara, Kanagawa, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Shuichi Torii M 1942 Japan Climbing Leader Miyazaki-shi, Miyazaki, Japan Unemployed book salesman Details Other expeditions
Takayuki Ushigima M 1951 Japan Climber Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto, Japan Agriculturalist Details Other expeditions
Kusang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ringi Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TUKU80301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:272 (1981) -
TUKU80301 MM - - - 77:11 (Jan 1981) -
TUKU80301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198127201/Asia-Nepal-Tukuche-Southwest-Ridge - - -