Tukuche | 1979 N Face-Junction Peak-Tukuche W Summit

A France expedition to Tukuche in 1979 via N Face-Junction Peak-Tukuche W Summit, led by Rene Collet. Summit reached on 22nd October 1979. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2123
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TUKU79301
Peak ID TUKU
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-Junction Peak-Tukuche W Summit
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Rene Collet
Sponsor Collet Team to Tukuche
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1979-10-14
Summit Date 1979-10-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 8
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes Abandoned at W Smt since route to main summit too dangerous
High Point (m) 6837
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/10,4900m),C1(16/10,5450m),W-Smt(22/10)
Route Notes Collet - 2 Nov 79 Very dangerous from Junction Peak to Main Peak, so went to West Peak instead. Perhaps possible via SW Ridge from French Pass across glacier between Dhaulagiri I and Tukuche. This route never climbed. Swiss went to Junction Peak and then West Peak and not to Main Peak. Most difficult is to climb Brenva Face (North Face) to Junction Peak. Needed fixed rope because over 60 degrees. Another route is from 300m above Tukuche Village via South Ridge - this is a long route. Simon became ill from altitude and could not go to summit. No accidents Mollard & Collet - 30 Sept 79 Route = North Ridge Approach across Dhampas Pass and onto Glacier north of Tukuche and onto West-East Ridge north of Tukuche to North Ridge of Tukuche BC 5600m. Only 1 high camp at about 6100m. Arrived 29 Sept; leave 2 Oct by bus to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 2 Oct with 30-5 porters and reach BC 14-15 Oct. 10-14 days climbing 3 Sherpas above BC. Ogeba [Ajiwa] Sherpa as sirdar Med. oxygen only
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447813
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-junction peak-tukuche w summit

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Denise Collet F 1930 France Climber Paris, France Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Rene Collet M 1932 France Leader Paris, France President & manager of financial advertising agency Details Other expeditions
Valerie Collet F 1960 France Climber Paris, France University student Details Other expeditions
Alain Dejean M 1934 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Professional photographer (for sygma) Details Other expeditions
Firmin Mollard M 1948 France Climber Les Contamines-Montjoie, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andre Simmond M 1929 France Climber Les Contamines-Montjoie, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & instructor at l'Ecole Nationale de Ski, Chamonix Details Other expeditions
Ajiwa Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TUKU79301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:628-629 (1980) -
TUKU79301 HJ Collet, Rene Tukuche West Peak (6780m) Expedition - 37:25-28 (1979-80) -
TUKU79301 MM - - - 71:14 (Jan 1980) -
TUKU79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062802/Asia-Nepal-Tukuche-West-Summit - - -
TUKU79301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/8/tukuche-west-peak-6780-m-expedition/ - - -