Tukuche | 1978 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Tukuche in 1978 via SW Ridge, led by Teruo Kurosawa. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2146
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TUKU78301
Peak ID TUKU
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Teruo Kurosawa
Sponsor Nagai Alpine Club of Japan's Expedition to Tukuche Peak
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1978-09-11
Summit Date -
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5200m due to route too difficult
High Point (m) 5200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/09,4000m),C1A(27/09,4650m),C1B(04/10,4850m),xxx(5200m)
Route Notes Takeda & Dr. Suda - 20 Oct 78 Both camps were on SE Ridge. C1 made 26 Sept at 4650m. Made nw C1 4 Oct 4850m - new C1 is very near BC and wanted C1 at 4850m,but route to that site was very difficult and had avalanche, so carried baggage to 1st C1 and then moved C1. Kusakari, Sugawara and 2 Sherpas hit by snow between old and new C1's, near old C1 site on 20th Sept. Sherpas Nuru Zamba and Gyalzen Chaklang carrying heavy loads on fixed rope as different 2 Sherpas fell down cliff 20-30m and 200m move slipped on mere gentle terrain. 2 members were at between of cliff and they slipped 200m also. Member and 1 Sherpa only minor injuries but Nuru Zambu head skull fracture injury and unconscious and had to be dug out and revived; bad shock and confused. Brought to KTM hospital by helicopter after being carried to BC. After new C1, wanted make C2 at about 5300m and were putting in fixed ropes but reached only 5200m by Nakanishi and Thunakawa and then no route: very steep cliff SE Ridge or very soft rotten rock, so SE Ridge. Okuyama was sick from altitude and so Dr Suda went with him. Sugawara not ill really, only slight headache. Sherpa also not: carried baggage for ill Okuyama who could not carry his own. No other accidents; illness and no frostbite. Leave for Japan may be early Nov. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 10 Oct 78 Tukuche abandoned 6 Oct; climbing route very difficult. Had made C1 4700m 20 Sept. BC 11 Sept 4000m C1 highest point reached. Takeda & Suda - 30 Aug 78 Larjung Khola to Point 4843m on Dhaula Himal map, thence west on Photorg Danda, traverse point 6482m and climb Tukuche via SE Ridge. BC at 3800m southeast point 4843m C1 at 5200m on Photorg Danda C2 5800m on Photorg Danda C3 6400m beyond Point 6482 on Tukuche's SE Ridge 6 members - all in KTM 1 sirdar Tenzing Zambu and 5 H-A Sherpas Oxygen for medical only Route = SE Ridge between 6452m and Tukuche is steep ice; more steep is BC to C1 rock. Point 4843m to Tukuche = 11 km direct Leave KTM 4 Sept, by truck caravan start 5 Sept. Arrive BC 15 Sept with 50 porters. Summit 15 Oct
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 3643
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Teruo Kurosawa M 1932 Japan Leader Nagai, Yamagata, Japan Managing director of Kurosawa Tekkou Construction Co. Details Other expeditions
Ichiro Kusakari M 1949 Japan Climber Iide-shi, Yamagata, Japan Manager of drug store (pharmacy) Details Other expeditions
Takashi Okuyama M 1942 Japan Climber Nagai, Yamagata, Japan Pharmacist with Kyodo Medication Details Other expeditions
Makoto Suda M 1948 Japan Exp Doctor Sendai, Miyagi, Japan Surgeon and instructor in surgery at Tohoku University Details Other expeditions
Shoichi Sugawara M 1939 Japan Climbing Leader Shirataka, Yamagata, Japan Electrician with Suzuki Densetu Co. Details Other expeditions
Kensaku Takeda M 1930 Japan Deputy Leader Nagai, Yamagata, Japan Teacher in Siratakamachi Koguwa Primary School Details Other expeditions
Nuru Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Zambu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TUKU78301 IWA - - - 67:146 (1979) -
TUKU78301 IWA - - - 67:46 (1979) -
TUKU78301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:276 (1979) -
TUKU78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927602/Asia-Nepal-Tukuche-Peak - - -