Tukuche | 1970 N Ridge

A Japan expedition to Tukuche in 1970 via N Ridge, led by Seiji Yamamoto. Summit reached on 30th April 1970. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2474
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TUKU70101
Peak ID TUKU
Year 1970
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Seiji Yamamoto
Sponsor Waseda University Tukuche Peak Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st official
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1970-04-30
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6920
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites ABC(5150m),C1(5800m),C2(6300m),Smt(30/04)
Route Notes Yamamoto - 19 May 70 Today 12 members to KTM with 5 left in PKR and other 3 hope to come tomorrow: Murata, Miyake and Nagatari. Yonemoto same pain still, but in few days complete recovery, not so strong yet. Otani right foot 2 toes frostbitten, lost ends 3 upper teeth, but chest recovered already. Kikuchi cremated at Tukuche village in dry Kali Gandaki bed on 12th May. Will take ashes to Japan and give ashes to parents at Tokyo airport ceremony. Requesting seat CCU/TKY, for arrival 23rd night 9:00 Pan Am (ed KTM IAC 21st May). Naoji Sakai - 6 May 70 Sakai was at adv Base Camp time of most accidents; still in base camp because 2 injured men now there since 2nd May. Now trying to reach dead body in glacier - or 2 injured with colleague at Tukuche village while search for body. Trio started at 2:30 am from C2 about 6300m 30th April. Reached summit at 2:00 pm and stayed 30 mins. Placed flags of Waseda Univ and Japanese and Nepali and taking photos. Kikuchi very tired so we will reach 6300m camp late and maybe reach there about 8:00 pm. Reached Junction Peak about 6600m at 8:30-9:00 pm and after peak, descending Kikuchi slipped fell only 15 minutes above C2. Tied together so 3 fell together 300m on south side towards Miyagdi Khola glacier. 3 were unconscious 1-1/2 hours. About 10:30 Yonemoto sent accident message to adv base camp by walkie-talkie. Yamamoto said they should pitch tents there where they were, but men confused and threw it away; but nights not very cold or windy. 4 members including Yamamoto sent at 11:30 pm to C1 and they reached there about 2:00 am 1 May. There already 4 members and of these 2 members went to C2 starting about 2 am. About 5:30 am Yonemoto sent news to Yamamoto in C1 that Kikuchi slipped again from bivouac. Slipped slowly and other 2 tried catch up with him and stop him but unable; Kikuchi fell another 200m. 8 am 3 members from C2 reached biv site and 5-6 others including doctor reached C2. Otani and Yamamoto able walk to C2 where doctor took care of him. Kikuchi body's could be seen through binoculars from spot C1 and C2, but could not be reached because very dangerous terrain of crevasses and seracs. Yonemoto's left hip bruised, Otani breast bone maybe broken. Kikuchi's family asked cremation and will done at Tukuche village and ashes taken to Japanese by expdition. Base 3900m, C1 4300m Advance base 5150m beyond Dhampus Pass. After advance Base established 1st 2 camps abandoned and 2 camps made above adv base: 1st 5800m 2nd 6300m Adv base now called base. Waseda University expedition Left Pokhara on 3 April 70. D. Kykushin - 31st March 70 Members to PKR 2 days ago, 2 members tomorrow. Rest of members and 2 Sherpas, Ang Temba and A.T. III, and kitchen boy and liaison officer to PKR with all baggage (except rice & veg?) in charter departure 12:40. About 1 week PKR/base camp; dep PKR 3 April. Base at 3900m (Dampus Pass, Hidden Valley advance base): C1A - 4800m in Hidden Valley Adv BC - 5000m C1B - 5600m C2 - 6200m C3 - 6600m Summit attempt about first of May. Same route via NE Ridge as Swiss.
Accidents Kikuchi killed in fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444342
Year 1970
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Seiji Yamamoto M 1939 Japan Leader Zushi, Kanagawa, Japan Graduated from Waseda Univ Details Other expeditions
Kenji Shiratori M 1939 Japan Deputy Leader Tatsuno, Nagano, Japan Graduated from Waseda Univ Details Other expeditions
Shoichi Murata M 1947 Japan Student Leader Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan 4th-year history student at Waseda U Details Other expeditions
Osamu Honma M 1946 Japan Climber Tsuruoka, Yamagata, Japan 4th-year student in Faculty of Letters, Waseda U Details Other expeditions
Takao Yonemoto M 1947 Japan Climber Kishiwada-shi, Osaka, Japan 4th-year education student Details Other expeditions
Daishiro Kyushin M 1946 Japan Climber Hakodate, Hokkaido, Japan 4th-year commerce student at Waseda U Details Other expeditions
Shotaro Miyake M 1947 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan 4th-year education student at Waseda U Details Other expeditions
Eiho Otani M 1947 Japan Climber Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan 3rd-year architecture student at Waseda U Details Other expeditions
Hirosuke Kikuchi M 1946 Japan Climber Kodaira, Tokyo, Japan 3rd-year economics student at Waseda U Details Other expeditions
Mitsuru Kinoshita M 1949 Japan Climber Mizuhoku, Nagaya, Hyogo, Japan 3rd-year law student at Waseda U Details Other expeditions
Akira Nagatani M 1947 Japan Climber Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan Second year student of faculty of letters Details Other expeditions
Makoto Hirano M 1948 Japan Climber Suginami-ku, Tokyo, Japan 2nd-year applied physics student at Waseda Univ Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Watanabe M 1949 Japan Climber Kitakanbara-gun, Niigata, Japan First year law student at Waseda Univ Details Other expeditions
Harushige Yabuta M 1948 Japan Climber Shinju-ku, Tokyo, Japan First year law student at Waseda Univ Details Other expeditions
Masahiro Ikeda M 1950 Japan Climber Toshima-ku, Tokyo, Japan First year law student at Waseda Univ Details Other expeditions
Terumi Yatsuhashi M - Japan Exp Doctor Yokohama, Japan Graduated from Nihon University Details Other expeditions
Naoji Sakai M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TUKU70101 AAJ Yamamoto, Seiji - - 45:437 (1971) -
TUKU70101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143701/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal-South - - -