Talung | 2014 NW Face-NW Pillar

A Italy expedition to Talung in 2014 via NW Face-NW Pillar, led by Mario Panzeri. Summit reached on 17th May 2014. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8506
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TLNG14101
Peak ID TLNG
Year 2014
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face-NW Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Mario Panzeri
Sponsor Italian Talung Northwest Pillar Expedition 2014
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Biratnagar->Bhadrapur->Taplejung->Yamphudin->Ramche
Basecamp Date 2014-04-20
Summit Date 2014-05-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 27
Total Days 30
Termination Date 2014-05-20
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to difficulty of the route, lack of time
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 1400
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/04,5000m),C1(16/05,6000m),xxx(17/05,6400m)
Route Notes High point on 17 May at 6400m on NNW Pillar by Bernasconi and Corona. At first, the team lost time waiting for the porters and loads first 10 days in Ramche, then 5 days in mid-camp (halfway between Ramche and their BC located 600m below Kangchenunga BC - which is more difficult to reach). Eventually, from 16 May when they could reach BC with porters, the trio began their climb, doing day trips to fix rope higher and higher (did so 11 to 12 times) on the mountain. Their precise itiniery followed the same route as the Czechs on the North Face at the beginning (attack at 5600m) in 60-degree steep snow. Then from 6000m and the only comfortable bivouac place, on top of the serac (same used by the Czechs as Bivouac 1 in 2013), they continued up to the right by steep ice pitches (80 degrees in old ice hard as rock, difficult to put ice screws - some beats 90 degrees) to reach at 6300m the proper NNW Pillar at the rock band, this latter sizing 400m high. In their ultimate attempt, on 16 May Bernasconi and Corona could begin to fix few pitches to the rock band, finding no bivouac places up there coming back to sleep at Bivouac 1. On 17 May they tried again to force the rock band up to 6400m, then had to stop because of the difficulty to put in protection (impossible to put friends or rock pitons). Corona reports that on before their last pitch he had to climb 40m roped without protection in boots. Overall grade difficulty for the climbed part of the rock band. The trio thinks they underestimated the steepness of the face. They climbed and fixed in total 31 pitches on the route. BERNASCONI, Daniele (high point 6400m) CORONA,Giampaolo (high point 6400m) PANZERI, Mario (Leader) (high point 6200m)
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Prestige Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460474
Year 2014
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face-nw pillar

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Daniele Bernasconi M 1971 Italy Climber Dervio, Lecco, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giampaolo Corona M 1973 Italy Climber Mezzano, Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mario Luciano Panzeri M 1964 Italy Leader Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TLNG14101 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay - - 90:351 (2016) -
TLNG14101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213863/Talung-North-Face-and-North-Northwest-Pillar-Attempt - - -