Talung | 2004 NW Face (to 6600m)

A Czech Republic expedition to Talung in 2004 via NW Face (to 6600m), led by Martin Otta. Summit reached on 21st October 2004. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4732
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TLNG04301
Peak ID TLNG
Year 2004
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face (to 6600m)
Route 2 N Ridge/Pillar (to 5850m)
Route 3 W Face (to 7000m)
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders Martin Otta
Sponsor Czech Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Ramche->Yalung Glacier
Basecamp Date 2004-10-04
Summit Date 2004-10-21
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2004-10-25
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to lateness in the day
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/10,5250m),ABC(09/10,5400m),C1(20/10,6200m),xxx(21/10,7000m)
Route Notes Having been on Talung before, had much better idea of weather patterns, which are injurious one with wind from Sikkim blowing snow horizontally in 3 routes climbed. 1) Otta and Cepelkova first acclimatized on NW Face. Started on 18th Oct and for 3 days in alpine style to 6600m on 20th, waited in tent at this point for wind to abate, and on 22nd and 23rd descended to BC. Did not go up again because no time left. Up in 2 bivs (at 5800m and 6200m) and down line east of ascent route in 1 biv (at 6200m). 2) Holecek and Rinn on 18th started late because Rinn had stomach trouble. Went up a couloir mixed rock and ice on right side of North Ridge/Pillar to 5850m and bived there. There Rinn discovered he had frostbite on 3 toes on both feet because had spent 2-1/2 to 3 hours belaying and 1 was black, standing in one place; so down to ABC on 20th. Very disappointed, they are excellent climbers. 3) Patek with Nankova 13 Oct up normal route on West Face to 6200m and 14 Oct to BC; had gone up only to acclimatize (Otta and Cepelkova had gone with them too to acclimatize). Patek with Cesenek 20th up normal West Face route for summit bid; went directly to normal C2 site at 6200m, slept there in biv and 21st up to 6250m-6300m when Cesenek, who had not gone on acclimatization climbing, got bad headache from altitude and he down to BC while Patek on up to 7000m just under Talung South Peak and down because late (4:00 pm) and down to 6200m tent and next day to BC. Climb finished. Mountain more difficult than in 2002 because of deep snow and avalanching. Next day after Otta and Cepelkova had been on ascent routes on NW Face, avalanches came down both sides of route including falling seracs and also now crevasses were hidden by deep snow. "The Pillar (North Pillar) is so beautiful its should be climbed" says Cepelkova.
Accidents Rinn frostbitten feet
Achievement -
Agency Everest Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456969
Year 2004
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face (to 6600m)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alena Cepelkova F 1953 Czech Republic Deputy Leader Liberac, Czech Republic Technician Details Other expeditions
Zbynek Cesenek M 1968 Czech Republic Climber Dobrichovice, Czech Republic Outdoor gear shop manager Details Other expeditions
Marek Holecek M 1974 Czech Republic Climber Prague, Czech Republic Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Jitka Nankova F 1957 Czech Republic Climber Zlin, Moravia, Czech Republic Clerk Details Other expeditions
Martin Otta M 1954 Czech Republic Leader Liberac, Czech Republic Technician Details Other expeditions
Vaclav Patek M 1951 Czech Republic Climber Zlin, Moravia, Czech Republic Owner of company producing climbing boots Details Other expeditions
Tomas Rinn M 1970 Czech Republic Climber Dobrichovice, Czech Republic Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Zdenek Vrany M 1948 Czech Republic Climber Prague, Czech Republic IT company manager Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TLNG04301 CLIM - - - 12:63 (Feb 2006) -