Talung | 2002 Left side of NW Face (to 6600m)

A Czech Republic expedition to Talung in 2002 via Left side of NW Face (to 6600m), led by Martin Otta. Summit reached on 24th October 2002. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4213
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TLNG02302
Peak ID TLNG
Year 2002
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Left side of NW Face (to 6600m)
Route 2 NW Face-W Face
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders Martin Otta
Sponsor Czech-Slovakian Expedition Talung 2002
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 3rd
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Slovakia
Approach 4-day bus ride to Taplejung->Anda Phedi->Simbuwa Khola->Ramche
Basecamp Date 2002-10-05
Summit Date 2002-10-24
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 19
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2002-10-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7349
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/10,5200m),Biv1(6100m),Biv2(6500m),Smt(24/10)
Route Notes BC at Yalung glacier C1 wwas series of 2 bivouacs High point on West face (left side). Went to 5400m for depot then went for acclimatization on West Face, on Japanese route, up to 6500m, making route for Japanese but without rope (Japanese later fixed all this route). Then to BC 14. 16 Oct Cepelkova and Kolouch left BC for N (not NNW) Pillar, climbed 500m up pillar to 5900m, then back to BC because of loose snow on rock so dangerous. Now decided to divide into 2 teams. 1st team Cepelkova, [Patak] and Otta left BC 19 Oct to try new route on left side of NW Face. Slept in ABC at 5400m. 20th started up mountain in series of bivouacs: 1st biv at 5800m on 20 Oct: 2nd biv at 6000m on 21 Oct; 3rd biv on 22nd and 23rd Oct at 6200m, 4th biv on 24 Oct at 6600m. 25th Oct had to turn back because no time left. Slow progress because technically more difficult than expected with 60-degrees steep, danger overhanging seracs, avalanching and wind. 25 Oct traversed to right to West Face (to Japanese route) to descend to BC same day late night. 2nd team Jackovic, Hromadka and Kolouch left BC 20 Oct for West Face and made only bivs: 1st biv at 6100m; 2nd biv at 6500m on 22nd Oct. 24 Oct both started for top at 5:00 am, Hromadka turned back 100m above biv, afraid of frostbite; Kolouch up to top alone in afternoon (about 3:00 pm) and back to 2nd biv. 25th evening all members back in BC. On 21 Oct Jackovic turned back from 1st biv because of not serious stomach and altitude problems.
Accidents Skokan breathing problem and never above BC; Cepelkova slight frostbite
Achievement -
Agency Everest Adventure
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456239
Year 2002
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) left side of nw face (to 6600m)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alena Cepelkova F 1953 Czech Republic Climber Liberac, Czech Republic Technician Details Other expeditions
Tibor Hromadka M 1965 Slovakia Climber Spisska Nova Ves, Czech Republic Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pavol Jackovic M 1962 Slovakia Climber Poprad, Slovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Petr Kolouch M 1961 Czech Republic Climber Prague, Czech Republic Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Martin Otta M 1954 Czech Republic Leader Prague, Czech Republic Technician Details Other expeditions
Vaclav Patek M 1951 Czech Republic Climber Zlin, Moravia, Czech Republic Technician Details Other expeditions
Jozef Skokan M 1966 Slovakia Climber Lucivna, Slovakia Technician Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TLNG02302 HIGH - - - 252:55 (Nov 2003) -