Tengkangpoche | 2021 E Ridge from south

A France expedition to Tengkangpoche in 2021 via E Ridge from south, led by Serge Bazin. Summit reached on 22nd October 2021. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10749
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TKPO21303
Peak ID TKPO
Year 2021
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge from south
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Serge Bazin
Sponsor French Team on Tengkangpoche 2021
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Khumjung->Thami->Lumding La->Lumding Tsho BC
Basecamp Date 2021-10-12
Summit Date 2021-10-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 12
Termination Date 2021-10-24
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due lack of lack of time and equipment
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 60
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,4850m),C1(14/10,5158m),C2(18/10,5650m),xxx(22/10,6200m)
Route Notes Approach: Lukla, Khumjung, Thami, Lumding La (south of Kwangde) BC 12/10 4800m-4900m, halfway between Lumding Tsho Og and Lumding Tsho Teng lakes (southeast of TKPO) C1 14/10 5158m (Finn Map) at Lumding Tsho Teng (put just 2 tents there) C2 18/10 5600m-5700m at the col afoot of the E Ridge HPt 22/10 6200m on E Ridge by Marius Lombard and Alexis Profit. Fixed rope: 60-70m on a serac section of the East Ridge. Climb abandoned on 22 Oct due to lack of time and equipment (fixed rope). Acclimatization: Members used different acclimatization schedule. Bazin and Dawa Sherpa (sirdar) hiked to Sunder Peak (5350m, northwest of Thami across valley from TKPO) from Thami (+1900m of ascent). Dawa Sherpa earlier had made the reconnaissance of the Lumding Tsho Teng conditions for the expedition. Attempt details: 20 years old project of Serge Bazin, back to an ascent of Kongde Ri with client (not in the HD). Back then, the Lumding Tsho Teng’s level was too high to allow a crossing towards Tengkangpoche’s East Ridge. The only solution would have been to get a boat to cross the lake. The expedition schedule got basically perturbated by a 1m fresh snow fall at 5000m, following a monsoon queue episode. So that on 12 Oct, the team couldn’t fix its BC properly at Lumding Tsho Teng, but in haste at some platform below it. From there, needed to wait 4 more days before being able to start with the proper climbing, from the end of the lake into the ramp (on the 16 Oct, reached hallway way of the ramp). The route chosen from the Lumding Tsho Teng was the logical right to left ramp reaching the col afoot of the TKPO East Ridge (alpine grade PD). E Ridge section afterwards was technically harder, and long. Reached 6200m on the East Ridge, stopped by cold and wind at the narrower section of the ridge. Would have needed more time and a 200m roll of fixed rope to equip the section. Possibility to establish a further camp on the E Ridge at a plateau at 6100m. Here hadn’t time to make it. Porters came back on the 23 Oct for emptying the BC on the day after. Access: the hike until the Lumding La and until Yak Kharka of Lumding Khola valley is easy. However from there, the section until 200m below the Lumding Tsho Og (glacial lake) is fairly difficult (not a hike) and can become a trap in case of snowfall. So that the team this time fixed 50m of fixed rope in a chimney for the porters, which stayed the time of the expedition before being removed on descent.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464636
Year 2021
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge from south

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Serge Bernard Bazin M 1963 France Leader Saint-Gervais les Bains, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marius Leo Lombard M 1996 France Climber Pralognan-la-Vanoise, Savoie, France Aspirant alpine guide, ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Pierre-Olivier Louis Pellegrin M 1959 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexis Pierre Francois Profit M 1989 France Climber Saint-Gervais, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gaspard Felix Ferdinand Profit M 1995 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Ski & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Michael Vogel M 1988 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.