Tengkangpoche | 2021 N Pillar (up), E Ridge (down)

A UK expedition to Tengkangpoche in 2021 via N Pillar (up), E Ridge (down), led by Tom Livingstone. Summit reached on 30th October 2021. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10747
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TKPO21301
Peak ID TKPO
Year 2021
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Pillar (up), E Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Tom Livingstone
Sponsor British Tengkangpoche Expedition 2021
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Ireland
Approach Lukla->Namche->Thami->Thengbo
Basecamp Date 2021-10-05
Summit Date 2021-10-30
Summit Time 1215
Summit Days 25
Total Days 26
Termination Date 2021-10-31
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6482
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/10,4360m),Biv1(24/10,5500m),Biv2(25/10,5500m),Biv3(26/10,5800m),Biv4(27/10,5900m),Biv5(28/10,6100m),Biv6(29/10,6200m),Smt(30/10)
Route Notes BC 05/10 4360m (Thengbo Guest House and Restaurant) Biv1 24/10 5500m (start of the route at circa 4800m, moderately difficult day) Biv2 25/10 5500m (on this second day, climbed further up and came back at the same bivouac place, hard climbing day) Biv3 26/10 5800m (hard climbing day) Biv4 27/10 5900m (hard climbing day) Biv5 28/10 6100m (duet reached the top of the pillar, at the start of the final snowy ridge section on right-hand side of the pillar). Biv6 29/10 6200m (duet climbed halfway along the snow ridge and bivouacked there) Smt 30/10 by both members at 12:15 pm. Duet finished to ascend the long snow ridge to the top, reached at 12:15 pm. This same afternoon, the team climbed the E Ridge to a col, then down-climbed from the latter on north (Thame) side. Reached base camp in the evening. During the descent of the E Ridge, could see evidence of a recent climb (1 or 2 days fresh footprints, fixed ropes) coming from the south side (Bazin's team ? “Seems as if Sherpas had fixed some rope, then clients had come after”). Left BC on on 31st of october to Lukla (not possible to stay and relax in BC because of flight tickets). Acclimatization: Acclimatized while trekking to Tashi Lapcha pass. Didn't climb any other mountains. Ascent of the N(E) Pillar: 7 days rount trip ascent, “one of the trickier things I've done”. “Massive attack”, about 1400m, proposed grade up to 5.11, A3, M7 (“With good lungs would be easier”). Difficulties involved hard mixed climbing (“ice-choked cracks”), difficult aid (“tricky aid up compact rock”. TL had hoped “never jumaring on a route” “but it was the most efficient method”, his first time doing it on such a big route), and a long snowy ridge to reach the top (“was classic himalayan snow, not much consolidated, reminding last summer's attempt on Pumari Chhish”). Waiting for Tom's line draw, showing bivouacs and key climbing sections. To be mentioned that the duet had had a 2 days attempt a week earlier to the actual ascent, which went up to circa 5600m, stopped by a fall of the leader (with just minor injuries). Previous recorded attempts of the N Pillar: 2002, French, Herve Qualizza, N Pillar to NE Face to 6100m (difficulty of the route) 2002, Czech-Slovak, Radek Lienerth, N Pillar to 5400m (loose snow on rock) 2004, French, Erwan Le Lann, N Pillar to 5200m (heavy snow) 2006, Canada, John Furneaux, N Pillar to 5750m (deep snow) 2019, Finland-Canada, Juho Knuuttila & Quentin Lindfield Roberts, N Pillar to 5930m (non-protectable route) 2021, Canada-USA, Quentin Lindfield Roberts and Jesse Huey
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of N Pillar
Agency Dream Himalaya Adventures
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464644
Year 2021
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n pillar (up), e ridge (down)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Thomas Michael (Tom) Livingstone M 1990 UK Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Matthew Robert Glenn M 1994 Ireland Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TKPO21301 - - https://www.climbing.com/news/first-ascent-northeast-pillar-tengkangpoche/?fbclid=IwAR1nD0llu_OGNR3-n-c-E_44UIzex94Tcwnmcraf3TfKeCopirMlWzCIrsw - - -
TKPO21301 - - https://www.tomlivingstone.com/climbing-blog-1/2021/11/3/tengkangpoche-2021 - - -
TKPO21301 - - https://explorersweb.com/tengkampoche-ne-pillar-was-the-route-poached/ - - -
TKPO21301 - - https://gearjunkie.com/news/climbers-raided-gear-tengkangpoche-first-ascent - - -
TKPO21301 - - https://abenteuer-berg.de/en/dispute-over-first-ascent-on-tengkangpoche-defused/ - - -
TKPO21301 AAJ Livingstone, Tom Tengkangpoche, Northeast Pillar - 96:282-284 (2022) -
TKPO21301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216079 - - -
TKPO21301 AJ Livingstone, Tom Massive Attack, Hard Climbing and Controversy on Tengkangpoche - 126:16-32 (2022) -
TKPO21301 HJ Livingstone, Tom Tengkangpoche - 77:132-146 (2022) -