Tengkangpoche | 2008 NE Face (center of face direct)

A Japan expedition to Tengkangpoche in 2008 via NE Face (center of face direct), led by Yasushi Okada. Summit reached on 15th November 2008. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6297
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TKPO08301
Peak ID TKPO
Year 2008
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face (center of face direct)
Route 2 NE Face-N Ridge (to 6250m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasushi Okada
Sponsor Japanese Tengkangpoche Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2008-10-28
Summit Date 2008-11-15
Summit Time 1045
Summit Days 18
Total Days 26
Termination Date 2008-11-23
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6482
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 80
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/10,4350m),Biv1(12/11,5000m),Biv2(13/11,5500m),Biv3(14/11,6150m),Smt(15/11); Biv1(19/11,5600m),(20/11,6000m),xxx(21/11,6250m)
Route Notes BC at Thengpo in a lodge. Japanese Tengkangpoche Expedition - 27 November 2008 After establishing BC on 28 October, the expedition trekked east to Tashi Labtsa on 3 November, then west to Thami on 5 November to rest. They returned to BC on the 9th. The expedition now split into two two-man teams to climb two routes on the NE Face. The first team of Manome and Okada left BC on 12 November and scaled the mountain via a new route directly up the center of the face in a series of three bivouacs. The route was technically difficult on mixed rock, snow and ice, and it was very steep in places, varying from 50 to 85 degrees. On the 12th they bivouacked below the face at 5000m. They fixed 80m of rope to make the route "easy to climb up on the first day." (This was the only rope they fixed on the mountain). On the 13th their bivouac was at 5500m and on the 14th at 6150m. At 2:30 am on the 15th they set out for the summit, reached it in windy weather and a snow shower at 10:45 am, and were back in BC at 0:30 am on the 16th in nearly full moonlight. Now it was the turn of the other pair, Arai and Nagato, to climb a line left of the Okada-Manome route to get onto the North Ridge. They too bivouacked on their ascent: their first bivouac was at 5600m on the 19th and the second at 6000m on the 20th. On November 21 they reached 6250m, but now there were technical difficulties: the snow was like sugar and the face was 70 degrees steep. Perhaps they should have gone slightly farther to the left, where the face is not so steep and not so technical, but perhaps that line would have been no better. Anyway, they turned around, returned to 6000m to bivouac there a second night, and descended to BC on the 22nd. Okada and Manome had stayed in BC while their teammates were on the face, waiting to be sure they returned safely to BC. Then Okada and Manome left BC the 23rd. Arai and Nagato left BC the next day.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458414
Year 2008
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face (center of face direct)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kenji Arai M 1977 Japan Climber Mathumoto, Nagano, Japan Concrete wall builder Details Other expeditions
Hiroyoshi Manome M 1969 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Forester Details Other expeditions
Takaaki Nagato M 1979 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Window cleaner Details Other expeditions
Yasushi Okada M 1973 Japan Leader Suwa-gun, Fujimi-machi, Nagano, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TKPO08301 JAN Okada, Yasushi The Northeast Face of Tengkangpoche - 10:14-17 (Jun 2009) -
TKPO08301 AAJ Ikeda, Tsunemichi - - 83:330-331 (2009) -
TKPO08301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200933003/Asia-Nepal-Rolwaling-Himal-Tengkangpoche-6487m-Northeast-Face-Moonlight - - -
TKPO08301 - - http://jac.or.jp/english/images/vol10/jan-vol10-14-17.pdf - - -