Tengkangpoche | 2008 N Face-W Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Tengkangpoche in 2008 via N Face-W Ridge, led by Ueli Steck. Summit reached on 24th April 2008. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6099
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TKPO08101
Peak ID TKPO
Year 2008
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Ueli Steck
Sponsor Annapurna I Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Thami->Thami Khola->Thengpo
Basecamp Date 2008-03-31
Summit Date 2008-04-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 0
Termination Date 2008-03-31
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6482
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Parchamo (6 April) and attempted Annapurna I (ANN1-081-04)
Campsites BC(31/03,4200m),Smt(24/04)
Route Notes BC at lodge in Thengpo village Series of bivouacs. Before attempting Annapurna I, the two Swiss climbers, Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten, went to Khumbu and climbed two smaller mountains as warm ups. They flew to Lukla on 29 March, trekked via Namche Bazar, Thami, and Thami Khola to Thengpo village, where they had their BC in a lodge. On 2 April they trekked westwards to Tashi Laptsa pass at 5800m and back to BC the same day. They returned to Tashi Laptsa on the 5 and slept there. On 6 April they climbed Parchermo via its North Ridge to its 6187m summit and returned to BC. Now they turned to Tengkangpoche, which had been successfully climbed only once before, in an unauthorized ascent by a British-American team in the autumn of 1984 via its East Ridge from the south. They approached from the north, where nine teams had failed from 2002 to 2006 on various northern lines. The Swiss tackled its North Face and made their first attempt on 10 April, when they went from BC to 5500m and bivouacked there. On the 11th they got to 6000m, and then falling snow and wind drove them back to BC. Now they took a rest to wait for better weather. They went to Namche for yak steaks on the 14th and returned to BC on the 15th. A week later they made their summit push of Tengkangpoche in just four days: from BC on 21 April they went up to 5100m on the North Face and bivouacked there. The next day they were at 5600m; on the 23rd they surmounted the 85 degree last section of their line on the North Face to reach the summit ridge, the West Ridge, at 6350m and made their last bivouac there. They went to the top on 24th April and were back in BC the same day.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Royal Orchid Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route True
Primary Member True
Primary Reference True
Primary ID ANN108104
Checksum 2458209
Year 2008
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-w ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Simon Nathaniel Anthamatten M 1983 Switzerland Climber Zermatt, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ueli Steck M 1976 Switzerland Leader Ringgenberg, Bern, Switzerland Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TKPO08101 AAJ Steck, Ueli Checkmate - 83:58-63 (2009) -
TKPO08101 AJ Steck, Ueli Checkmate - 114:56-61 (2009) -
TKPO08101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200933001/Asia-Nepal-Rolwaling-Himal-Tengkangpoche-6487m-First-Authorized-Ascent-Northwest-Face-Checkmate - - -
TKPO08101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200905800/Checkmate-A-Change-in-Strategy-Brings-Success-on-the-Northwest-Face-of-Tengkangpoche-in-Nepal - - -
TKPO08101 - - http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-steck-anthamatten-tengkampoche - - -
TKPO08101 - - https://www.climbing.com/news/swiss-duo-completes-much-tried-nepalese-face/ - - -
TKPO08101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2009_files/AJ%202009%2056-61%20Steck%20Teng%20Kangpoche.pdf - - -