Tengkangpoche | 2005 N Face

A Canada expedition to Tengkangpoche in 2005 via N Face, led by Will Gadd. Summit reached on 29th October 2005. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5145
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TKPO05301
Peak ID TKPO
Year 2005
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Canada
Leaders Will Gadd
Sponsor Tengkangpoche Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2005-10-12
Summit Date 2005-10-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 22
Termination Date 2005-11-03
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5200m due to lack of ice and 1 member's illness
High Point (m) 5200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,4300m),Biv(16/10,5100m),xxx(29/10,5200m)
Route Notes BC at village of Tengpo Biv at 5100m on North Face High point at North Face to right of main buttress. Attempted two lines to reach summit, one on 29th and one on 30th but turned around at 5200m via both. Emails from Will Gadd to Miss Hawley Oct 16 made biv at 5100m. Oct 29 we also attempted another lined on Oct 30 but were turned around by unstable snow around 5200m also. Simper got very sick and left BC on 26th to recuperate elsewhere. I made one bivouac on the face around 5100m; after that we made one more attempt and were turned around by poor ice at around the same altitude. After Scot Simper got sick, Semple and I climbed together. We also did several acclimatization trips in the surrounding peaks while waiting for Scott Semple (too many Scott's) to recover from a bug that slowed him down. Scott Semple and I got to about 5200m. There are several possible lines on the face, we were climbing to the right of the main buttress up the obvious ice flows (that were snow unfortunately). Lack of ice, sickness (Scott Simper came down with rare bacteria that normally infects cattle, brucellosis; he got it from eating bad meat in Northern Canada on another trip). It's steep, big and very technical. We did not have enough ice, time, motivation or equipment on this trip. We're too lazy to carry oxygen, and the terrain is far too technical for those not trained in high angle climbing to safely ascend on. I also don't believe in oxygen for climbing mountains. Messner proved that it was possible to climb high without it; using it today is like running a 4 minute mile using a bicycle - not the same thing really.
Accidents Simper very sick (brucellosis which he contracted in Canada) and left 26 Oct
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457298
Year 2005
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
William (Will) Gadd M 1967 Canada Leader Canmore, Alberta Professional climber and film-maker Details Other expeditions
Scott Semple M 1973 Canada Climber Canmore, Alberta Alpine guide and safety advisor Details Other expeditions
Scott G. Simper M 1969 USA Climber Salt Lake City, Utah Cameraman Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TKPO05301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 80:415 (2006) -
TKPO05301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200641501/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Rolwaling-Himal-Tengkangpoche-Attempts-on-North-Side - - -