Tengkangpoche | 2004 NE Face (to 5400m)

A UK expedition to Tengkangpoche in 2004 via NE Face (to 5400m), led by Nick Bullock. Summit reached on 24th October 2004. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4727
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TKPO04302
Peak ID TKPO
Year 2004
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face (to 5400m)
Route 2 NW Face (to 6200m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Nick Bullock
Sponsor Tengkangpoche North Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Thami Og
Basecamp Date 2004-10-09
Summit Date 2004-10-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 17
Termination Date 2004-10-26
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to ridge too dangerous
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/10,3800m),ABC(21/10,4320m),Biv(22/10,4600m),C1(23/10,5900m),C2(24/10,6200m),xxx(24/10,6200m)
Route Notes BC at Thami Og for NE Face ABC at Thengpo Biv at base of NW Face on Thengpo Glacier C1 on NW Face C2 on West Ridge High point at West Ridge at of of NW Face. First acclimatized by trek towards Tashi Labtsa to 5400m, then to Thengpo for climb, then back to Thami Og which was their base. Waited for snow to settle and then 16 Oct to mountain and biv at about 4500m on NE Face. Midnight of 16th/17th attempt to climb face, got to 5400m; ground were on was avalanche prone and slab avalanche so started coming down (from 12 hours "we avoided death" says Bullock); got to 5400m at 8:00 am and down to Thami Og at noon. Went to Namche and returned to Thami Og 20 Oct. 21st Oct to Thengpo dumped gear on NW Face at 4600m on Thengpo Glacier. 22nd returned to dump site at 4600m and biv there. 23rd at 2:00 am went to 5900m at 6200m and bived there. Below 5900m no rope used but above they used 60m rope for each pitch climbed but no ropes fixed. From 5400m was 90-degree snow and ice face to top of NW Face at West Ridge. Arrived at ridge at 8:00 am. 25th left 6200m biv at 8:00 am and back to Thengpo; had reached 4600m biv site at 8:00 pm and Thengpo at 9:30 pm. Had decided on 24th, when could see West Ridge that ridge would have been very dangerous, time consuming and not worth the risk to go on it to summit. Face from 5900m to ridge was moderately difficult ice and snow. During descent snow was falling and spindrift avalanching but not heavy avalanche.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of NW Face to West Ridge
Agency Arun Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456927
Year 2004
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face (to 5400m)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nicholas Ivor (Nick) Bullock M 1965 UK Leader Luton, Bedford, England Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Nicholas Dean (Nick) Carter M 1971 UK Climber Glasgow, Scotland Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TKPO04302 CLIM Bullock, Nick Dark Shadows on the Edge of Darkness - 1:68-74 (Mar 2005) -
TKPO04302 AAJ Bullock, Nick - - 79:389-391 (2005) -
TKPO04302 AJ Bullock, Nick Shadows on Tengkangpoche - 110:91-96 (2005) -
TKPO04302 CLIM - - - 12:65 (Feb 2006) -
TKPO04302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200538903/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Region-Mahalangur-Himal-Teng-Kang-Poche-Ascent-of-the-North-West-Face-Not-to-Summit-Edge-of-Darkness - - -
TKPO04302 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2005_files/AJ%202005%2091-95%20Bullock%20Teng%20Kangpoche.pdf - - -