Thulagi | 2015 W Face-NW Ridge

A Russia expedition to Thulagi in 2015 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Alexander Gukov. Summit reached on 26th September 2015. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	8909
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	THUL15301
Peak ID	THUL
Year	2015
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	W Face-NW Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Russia
Leaders	Alexander Gukov
Sponsor	Russian Thulagi Peak Expedition 2015
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	1st
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Dharapani, open camp on a bridge before Dharmasala
Basecamp Date	2015-09-10
Summit Date	2015-09-26
Summit Time	1550
Summit Days	16
Total Days	18
Termination Date	2015-09-28
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	7059
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	1700
Total Members	4
Summit Members	4
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(10/09,3665m),ABC(11/09,4700m),C1(16/09,5000m),C2A(17/09,5700m),C2B(17/09,5800m),C3.Biv(24/09,6700m),Smt(26/09)
Route Notes	BC 10/09 3665m at Dharmasala ABC 11/09 4700m above the glacier between Thulagi and Pharpi C1 16/09 5000m C2 17/09 5700m C3 24/09 6700m (biv) Smt 26/09 by Gukov, Dozhdev, Shamalo and Kirichenko at 3:50 pm. On 13 September the team started opening the route. When they reached 5000m, the weather became bad and they descended to 4700m where they spent the night. On 14 September they took their climbing gear and tent to 5250m and returned to BC. On 16 September they spent night at 5000m. Next day 17 September the team spent night at 5700m. On 18 September the team moved its camp to 5800m from 5700m and returned BC. The summit push started from BC on 21 September and they slept at 5100m at the beginning of glacier. On 22 September the team went to ABC and found that the tent was destroyed by avalanche. They found it 20m below. The climbing gear was intact inside the damaged tent, but the ice bars which were outside the tent were missing. They started looking for the missing ice bars which they found only 2 out of 5 bars. On 24 September route making started on West Face. They reached 6700m at 7 pm on NW Ridge and dug a cave to sleep. On 25 September they started at 8 am and reached the summit at 3:50 pm. They stayed on the summit for 15 minutes. The summit ridge was sharp. The team descended to 6700m and slept there. Weather was very good. On 26 September they bivied in at 5100m and on 27 September went down to BC. Good weather on 24, 25 and 26 September, rest of days snowfall, rain and foggy. West Face 60-degree ice wall and three pitches of rock face at 6500m about 100m vertical. NW Ridge plenty of snow, 50m ice fall in route and rest of route snow and not steep. The team arrived Kathmandu on 5 September stayed at Khangsar Guest House and left for the mountain on 8 Sept by vehicle. Fixed rope: 1700m from 5800m to summit.
Accidents	-
Achievement	1st ascent
Agency	7 Summits Adventure
Commercial Route	False
Standard Route	False
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2460927
Year	2015
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	w face-nw ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	64674
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	THUL15301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	THUL
Year	2015
Season	3
First Name	Ruslan
Last Name	Kirichenko
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1985
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	Russia
Status	Climber
Residence	St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia
Occupation	Engineer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7059
Summit Date 1	2015-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1550
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	1
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2444085
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ruslan kirichenko
Year of Birth	1985
Year	2015
Age at Expedition	30
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	64675
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	THUL15301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	THUL
Year	2015
Season	3
First Name	Valeri
Last Name	Shamalo
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1965
Calculated Age	50
Citizenship	Russia
Status	Climber
Residence	St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia
Occupation	Construction company manager
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7059
Summit Date 1	2015-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1550
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	1
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2436885
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	valeri shamalo
Year of Birth	1965
Year	2015
Age at Expedition	50
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	64676
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	THUL15301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	THUL
Year	2015
Season	3
First Name	Alexander
Last Name	Gukov
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1976
Calculated Age	39
Citizenship	Russia
Status	Leader
Residence	St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia
Occupation	Seaman
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7059
Summit Date 1	2015-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1550
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	1
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2440876
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	alexander gukov
Year of Birth	1976
Year	2015
Age at Expedition	39
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	64677
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	THUL15301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	THUL
Year	2015
Season	3
First Name	Ivan
Last Name	Dozhdev
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1986
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Russia
Status	Climber
Residence	St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia
Occupation	IT engineer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7059
Summit Date 1	2015-09-26
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1550
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	1
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2444607
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ivan dozhdev
Year of Birth	1986
Year	2015
Age at Expedition	29
Role	Member

4 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Ruslan Kirichenko	M	1985	Russia	Climber	St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia	Engineer	Details Other expeditions
Valeri Shamalo	M	1965	Russia	Climber	St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia	Construction company manager	Details Other expeditions
Alexander Gukov	M	1976	Russia	Leader	St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia	Seaman	Details Other expeditions
Ivan Dozhdev	M	1986	Russia	Climber	St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia	IT engineer	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	9709
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	THUL15301
Reference ID	01
Year	2015
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Gukov, Alexander
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	2016
Language	-
Citation	90:335-336 (2016)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	10396
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	THUL15301
Reference ID	02
Year	2015
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213864/Thulagi-West-Face-and-Northwest-Ridge-Happy-Birthday
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
THUL15301	AAJ	Gukov, Alexander	-	-	90:335-336 (2016)	-
THUL15301	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213864/Thulagi-West-Face-and-Northwest-Ridge-Happy-Birthday	-	-	-