Thamserku | 1989 E Face-S Ridge

A USA expedition to Thamserku in 1989 via E Face-S Ridge, led by Hooman Aprin. Summit reached on 14th April 1989. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 811
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID THAM89101
Peak ID THAM
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face-S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Hooman Aprin
Sponsor Him-Kooh American Thamserku Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-04-02
Summit Date 1989-04-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5940m due to rotten rocks and Culver's decision to leave
High Point (m) 5940
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/04,4200m),C1(06/04,4570m),C2(09/04,5240m),C3(11/04,5760m),xxx(14/04,5940m)
Route Notes BC at Kyashar Glacier between Kusum Kanguru and base of S Ridge of Thamserku C1 at lateral moraine of Kyashar Glacier at base of East Face C2 on East Face towards S Ridge C3 just beside S Ridge (no room on North Ridge to camp). Vos kicking steps in rock on 50 ft section powdery rock. From C2 all technical climbing and from here fixed rope (up entire route above). From C3 down to BC to rest (had colds). 13th from BC to C2, where almost smashed by large boulder that came down 1.5m from tent. 14th to C3, ate lunch started climbing S Ridge. Aprin climbed 500-600 ft (found Korean's rope) and got to stack of flakes totally loose; too dangerous and it simply came away. Culver had said he would quit by 16th. All snow and ice gear useless because only rock and had completely used up rock gear. Seems to be a pattern of glacier melting and rock bare on Nepalese mountains. Aprin would have tried on alternate line on smooth rock face, but Culver determined to leave.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451240
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face-s ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hooman Nmi Aprin M 1946 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Daniel George (Dan) Culver M 1952 Canada Climber N Vancouver, British Colombia Marine biologist Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
THAM89101 AAJ Aprin, Hooman - - 64:221 (1990) -
THAM89101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199022102/Asia-Nepal-Thamserku-Attempts-1988-and-1989 - - -