Thamserku | 1988 W Ridge (to 5365m)

A USA expedition to Thamserku in 1988 via W Ridge (to 5365m), led by Hooman Aprin. Summit reached on 12th December 1988. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 103
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID THAM88401
Peak ID THAM
Year 1988
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge (to 5365m)
Route 2 S Ridge (to 5790m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Hooman Aprin
Sponsor Him-Kooh American Thamserku Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach Kyashar Drangka valley
Basecamp Date 1988-12-01
Summit Date 1988-12-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 12
Termination Date 1988-12-13
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5790m due to difficulty of route
High Point (m) 5790
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/12,4270m),C1.Biv(03/12,4900m),BC2(07/12,4175m),C1(08/12,4725m),Biv1(09/12,5180m),Biv2(10/12,5455m),Biv3(11/12,5730m),xxx(12/12,5790m)
Route Notes 1st BC southwest of mountain Biv C1 at bottom of West Ridge 2nd BC II Kyashar Glacier 2nd C1 at lateral moraine on west side of glacier 1st biv on a bottom between point 5991m and point 5652m 2nd biv at buttress 3rd biv on South Ridge High point at the base of tower. Found fixed ropes left by French in 1985 autumn on West Ridge when ridge covered with snow, but now snow gone and headwall to ridge entirely rotten rock. Climbed to 5365m on 4th Dec and then gave up intention to scale this ridge because of many rotten rock towers which would have required much fixed rope and time but intention was to climb rapidly, so descended to 4570m on 4th, dropped loads there and down to BC same day. On 5th tried another approach to ridge a little further east, but lot of rocks coming down so too dangerous to get close as back to BC. 6th to Manje and 7th went east through Kyashar Glacier to try South Ridge with Sherpas carrying loads to C1. 9th Aprin and Culver began alpine-style push up 600m loose rock up a buttress on E Side of S Ridge and biv without tent. 10th to very small ledge on buttress. 11th had climbing continued but snow on rock now, which made for faster climbing and reached ridge at 3:30 pm at base of tower (5790m). 12th looked at rock to tower but did not have enough gear for 300m vertical distance to rappel down in descent so decided to descend and were in BC on 12th determined to return to route in spring 1989 making stocked camp at 5730m and fixing whole buttress and perhaps 1st tower with Sherpas.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st US and Canadian attempt
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451116
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge (to 5365m)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Edward L. Farrar M 1951 USA Climber Wenatchee, Washington Orthopedic surgeon Details Other expeditions
Hooman Nmi Aprin M 1946 USA Leader Jackson, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Daniel George (Dan) Culver M 1952 Canada Climber N Vancouver, British Colombia Marine biologist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
THAM88401 AAJ Aprin, Hooman - - 64:221 (1990) -
THAM88401 MM - - - 127:13 (May 1989) -
THAM88401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199022102/Asia-Nepal-Thamserku-Attempts-1988-and-1989 - - -