Thamserku | 1986 W Face (middle)

A Spain expedition to Thamserku in 1986 via W Face (middle), led by Jose Luis Fernandez. Summit reached on 27th October 1986. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 921
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID THAM86301
Peak ID THAM
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face (middle)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jose Luis Fernandez
Sponsor Thamserku Hortaleza al Himalaya 1986
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-10-09
Summit Date 1986-10-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1986-10-30
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to lack of fuel stove and need to return to Spain
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/10,4300m),Dep(18/10,5200m),Biv1(25/10,5700m),Biv2(26/10,5950m),Biv3(27/10,6300m),xxx(27/10,6300m)
Route Notes BC at 4300m at west side of mountain near yak house 1 hour below Deposit at 5200m at bottom of West Face Biv 1 at 5700m on West Face (middle of face) Biv 2 at 5950m on West Face (middle of face) Biv 3 at 6300m on West Face at bottom of couloir. 11 days stayed in BC because bad weather. Went up to make deposit: started up 18th Oct and in 4 days made +4 carries to deposit while sleeping each night in BC. 24th Oct summit push began by all 4 members and 3 slept at deposit while leader returned to BC with altitude sickness. 25th 3 started for summit and reached 5700m and next day up again. 28th gas finished, impossible to melt snow and cook food (had been drinking only one litre/day) so despite all difficult climbing finished and only easy couloir to scale to summit, turned down because too dangerous to climb without liquids. Also were tired. From 5700m were 500m very steep ice above 1st biv. Entire face is steep: could only sit in bivouac because no space to lie down although above biv 3 appeared less steep. Descended same route in 25 hours continous descent to BC.
Accidents 3 members frostbite and leader's altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450337
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face (middle)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jose Luis Fernandez M 1957 Spain Leader Madrid, Spain Graphic artist Details Other expeditions
Jose Manuel Gonzalez M 1962 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Historian Details Other expeditions
Srta Azucena Lopez F 1958 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Nurse Details Other expeditions
Miguel Angel Rodriguez M 1962 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
THAM86301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:230 (1987) -
THAM86301 HJ Gonzales, Jose Manuel Thamserku, 1986 - 44:180-181 (1986-1987) -
THAM86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723001/Asia-Nepal-Thamserku-Attempt - - -
THAM86301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/44/27/expeditions-and-notes-44/ - - -