Thamserku | 1980 N Face

A Japan expedition to Thamserku in 1980 via N Face, led by Koji Okano. Summit reached on 27th April 1980. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1901
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID THAM80101
Peak ID THAM
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Koji Okano
Sponsor Japanese on Tamserku - Sangaku Doshikai Tamserku Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-03-25
Summit Date 1980-04-27
Summit Time 1601
Summit Days 33
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6618
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/03,3990m),C1(02/04,5000m),Biv1(10/04,5700m),Biv2(18/04,6100m),Smt(27/04)
Route Notes Okano & Hayama - 4 May 80 2 arrive KTM today, others when can get flight from SYB (Shyangboche). No frostbite, no accident and no serious illness. ABC 2 April 5000m No more camps 5700m biv site 10 April 6100m biv site 18 April Climbed in pairs: one pair making route, other moving loads; then next day changed over. Summit 27 April by Okano and Masunaga, both who were on Thamserku last year. Masunaga on top 4:01 pm and Okano at 4:12 pm and biv that night on summit because so very steep, not possible reach 2nd bivouac and because wanted to stay there. Other 2 not to top because Dr Hayama not technically competent enough and Takehara tired out. Only 2 ice axes left after 2 broken making route. If 2 follow others takes more time. More time to reach summit from start of climbing because had to wait for this when at least 2 members in good condition. Route not so difficult, says leader "Doug Scott can do it in 1 week," but Hayama thought "very steep everywhere." Okano - 13 March 80 All in KTM now: 3 climbers and 1 doctor. Leave KTM 17 March by air maybe to SYB. Same route as 1978; maybe by camps same also with only bivouac above C1. No Sherpas above BC. BC -> summit 25 days.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447957
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Keiichi Hayama M 1947 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Katsuyuki Masunaga M 1952 Japan Climber Aego, Saitama, Japan Motorcar engineer (Nissan Motors) Details Other expeditions
Koji Okano M 1950 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Kimio Takehara M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Construction engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
THAM80101 AAJ - - - 55:255 (1981) -
THAM80101 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
THAM80101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125501/Asia-Nepal-Thamserku-North-Face - - -