Thamserku | 1979 N Face

A Japan expedition to Thamserku in 1979 via N Face, led by Shomi Suzuki. Summit reached on 26th April 1979. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2085
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID THAM79102
Peak ID THAM
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shomi Suzuki
Sponsor Sangaku Doshikai Thamserku Expedition 1979
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Khumbu Valley->Phuki Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1979-04-02
Summit Date 1979-04-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1979-05-02
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to member AMS
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/04,3900m),C1(11/04,5000m),Biv1(23/04,5900m),Biv2(24/04,6100m),xxx(26/04,6300m)
Route Notes Dr. Sakono - 8 May 79 Okada altitude sickness but now OK - is at SYB [Shyangboche] with expedition baggage. Okano team climbed 6300m on 26th April, but Okada ill at 6100m biv so expedition cannot go to top. All members started down to BC 27th April. No fixed ropes above 5700m, so all members had to help him down. Had used 1500m fixed rope already and had none left. Needed about 1000m more to fix rope to summit. No C2 - climbed Alpine style above C1 and biv at 5700m. Fixed rope above 5600 (removing it from lower and at 5900m 23 April, 6100m 24-25 April and 26 April. Reached 6300m on 26th but no biv. All reached 5900m biv on 27th and to 5000 C1 on 28th and 29th BC. At BC recieved message re-Kangtega all except Okado and Sherpa and LO to SYB 30 April for helicopter (which actually had evacuated Kangtega on 28th). 30th evening learned helicopter evacuation taken place and 1 May returned to BC and discussed whether to climb again but have no time: only 20 days food and fuel plus one member ill. N Face route very difficult: above C1 very steep and no campsites. Face about 1600m high - face is possible to climb: 6300m high point is just at big serac = just below top of face - about 200m more to E Ridge. On 26th thought summit success sure, but then Okada became ill. No other illness, no accidents or frostbite. Hanging glacier safe? "Maybe so." Hindo and Takeuchi leave Nepal 8 May, Yuda 11 May, Suzuki with Yuda and also Masumaga. Okada and Okomo still in SYB so [don't] know departure. Sakano in KTM about 1 week more. Suzuki - 16 March 79 12 March all members both expeditions in KTM 27 March all go to Lukla by air. Make 2 BC's Thamserku - Sangaku Doshikai Route = N Face BC 4000m on Phuki glacier c31 March 2 high camps - C2 6000m Summit all members after 3 weeks climbing; 1 Sherpa only BC Very steep rock and ice mixed. From my [EAH] file: In spring 1979 expedition reached 6300m on 26 April (above 2nd biv made at 6100m on 24 April), then member Noboru Okada became seriously ill from altitude and all others had to take him down very steep face. Then at BC found note asking them to help evacuate injured man on Kangtega.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447589
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Katsuyuki Masunaga M 1952 Japan Climber Aego, Saitama, Japan Motorcar engineer Details Other expeditions
Noboru Okada M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Koji Okano M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Toshitaka Sakano M 1944 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Shomi Suzuki M 1953 Japan Leader Kamakura, Kanagawa, Japan Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
THAM79102 AAJ - - - 53:613 (1980) -
THAM79102 IWA - - - 74:152 (1980) -
THAM79102 IWA - - - 74:36-37 (1980) -
THAM79102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061302/Asia-Nepal-Thamserku-North-Face-Attempt - - -