Thamserku | 1979 SW Face-W Ridge
A Japan expedition to Thamserku in 1979 via SW Face-W Ridge, led by Takeshi Kimura. Summit reached on 27th April 1979. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2082 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | THAM79101 |
| Peak ID | THAM |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Face-W Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Takeshi Kimura |
| Sponsor | Japanese Expedition Club to Thamserku |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 2nd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Lukla->Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-03-30 |
| Summit Date | 1979-04-27 |
| Summit Time | 0815 |
| Summit Days | 28 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6618 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(30/03,4500m),C1(06/04,5900m),C2(19/04,6300m),C3(26/04,6400m),Biv(27/04,6600m),Smt(28/04) |
| Route Notes | S. Kimura - 5 May 79 Thamserku has 2 peaks. 1 rock peak is central peak south-southwest of main peak, main peak is little higher. Expedition 1st reached rock peak 27 April and bivouacked there 27/28 (rock peak = virgin peak). 28 April reached main summit 8:15 am and returned to attack camp same day. SW Face very difficult; very dangerous knife-ridge snow wall and snow wall at highest parts, so stopped 2nd summit attempt. Other Thamserku expedition climbed 6200-6300m and then returned to ABC for 3 days very slowly and so thought they had accident but this wrong. Think they are now in KTM. No accidents, illness, frostbite. Only Takashi Kimura in KTM; others arrived about 10 May except Satoshi Kimura and 1 other who came earlier and left 3 May for jobs in Japan. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 2 May 79 Thamserku (Japanese Expedition Club) Summit 28 April by Satoshi Kimura (who arrived KTM today with another member) Sakae Hosogai Summiters arrived C3 at 6300m 26 April 14:45 hours. 27 April left C3 7:00 am and climbed steep rock pillar to biv at 6500m at 16:45 hours. 28 April left biv 7:00 am and reached summit at 8:15 am, left summit at 9:15 am, arrived C3 at 5:00 am. All are well. Satoshi Kimura - 14 March 79 9 total members: 3 arrive yesterday, others arrive 18 March. Leave KTM about 20 March by air to Lukla. Route from SW Face - arrive 25 March BC at 4000m 3 high camps: C1 (ABC) - 5000m C2 - 5800m C3 - 6300m after 3 weeks No Sherpas above BC; only one kitchen boy. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. Other Japanese this spring from North Face - also very difficult route. SW Face: will climb via a ridge on this face; very steep: maybe 60%. Face is 1500m high. Mixed rock and ice on ridge. Hillary team climbed South Ridge, only previous attempt. |
| Accidents | No accidents, illness, frostbite |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447545 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw face-w ridge |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hideaki Goto | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Tatomi, Yamanashi, Japan | Salesman of electric parts | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Hayakawa | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Isawa, Yamanashi, Japan | Designs electric motors | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuhiko Hayashi | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Numazu, Shizuoka, Japan | Computer engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Sakae Hosogai | M | 1950 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Geography student (Tokyo Metropolitan University) | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Kamo | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Satoshi Kimura | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Kimura | M | 1941 | Japan | Leader | Yokohama, Japan | Salesman in advertising company | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuji Mizutani | M | 1954 | Japan | Climber | Kagamiwara, Gifu, Japan | Medical student | Details Other expeditions |
| Kozo Naraki | M | 1956 | Japan | Climber | Komaki, Aichi, Japan | Printer | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| THAM79101 | AAJ | - | - | - | 53:613 (1980) | - |
| THAM79101 | JAC | Kimura, Takashi | South-west Wall of Thamserku 1979 | - | 75:123-132 (1980) | - |
| THAM79101 | IWA | - | - | - | 74:151-152 (1980) | - |
| THAM79101 | IWA | - | - | - | 74:36 (1980) | - |
| THAM79101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061301/Asia-Nepal-Thamserku-Southwest-Face | - | - | - |