Thamserku | 1979 SW Face-W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Thamserku in 1979 via SW Face-W Ridge, led by Takeshi Kimura. Summit reached on 27th April 1979. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2082
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID THAM79101
Peak ID THAM
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Takeshi Kimura
Sponsor Japanese Expedition Club to Thamserku
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1979-03-30
Summit Date 1979-04-27
Summit Time 0815
Summit Days 28
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6618
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/03,4500m),C1(06/04,5900m),C2(19/04,6300m),C3(26/04,6400m),Biv(27/04,6600m),Smt(28/04)
Route Notes S. Kimura - 5 May 79 Thamserku has 2 peaks. 1 rock peak is central peak south-southwest of main peak, main peak is little higher. Expedition 1st reached rock peak 27 April and bivouacked there 27/28 (rock peak = virgin peak). 28 April reached main summit 8:15 am and returned to attack camp same day. SW Face very difficult; very dangerous knife-ridge snow wall and snow wall at highest parts, so stopped 2nd summit attempt. Other Thamserku expedition climbed 6200-6300m and then returned to ABC for 3 days very slowly and so thought they had accident but this wrong. Think they are now in KTM. No accidents, illness, frostbite. Only Takashi Kimura in KTM; others arrived about 10 May except Satoshi Kimura and 1 other who came earlier and left 3 May for jobs in Japan. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 2 May 79 Thamserku (Japanese Expedition Club) Summit 28 April by Satoshi Kimura (who arrived KTM today with another member) Sakae Hosogai Summiters arrived C3 at 6300m 26 April 14:45 hours. 27 April left C3 7:00 am and climbed steep rock pillar to biv at 6500m at 16:45 hours. 28 April left biv 7:00 am and reached summit at 8:15 am, left summit at 9:15 am, arrived C3 at 5:00 am. All are well. Satoshi Kimura - 14 March 79 9 total members: 3 arrive yesterday, others arrive 18 March. Leave KTM about 20 March by air to Lukla. Route from SW Face - arrive 25 March BC at 4000m 3 high camps: C1 (ABC) - 5000m C2 - 5800m C3 - 6300m after 3 weeks No Sherpas above BC; only one kitchen boy. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. Other Japanese this spring from North Face - also very difficult route. SW Face: will climb via a ridge on this face; very steep: maybe 60%. Face is 1500m high. Mixed rock and ice on ridge. Hillary team climbed South Ridge, only previous attempt.
Accidents No accidents, illness, frostbite
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447545
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-w ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hideaki Goto M 1953 Japan Climber Tatomi, Yamanashi, Japan Salesman of electric parts Details Other expeditions
Takashi Hayakawa M 1952 Japan Climber Isawa, Yamanashi, Japan Designs electric motors Details Other expeditions
Yasuhiko Hayashi M 1952 Japan Climber Numazu, Shizuoka, Japan Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Sakae Hosogai M 1950 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Geography student (Tokyo Metropolitan University) Details Other expeditions
Takashi Kamo M 1953 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Satoshi Kimura M 1946 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Takashi Kimura M 1941 Japan Leader Yokohama, Japan Salesman in advertising company Details Other expeditions
Yuji Mizutani M 1954 Japan Climber Kagamiwara, Gifu, Japan Medical student Details Other expeditions
Kozo Naraki M 1956 Japan Climber Komaki, Aichi, Japan Printer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
THAM79101 AAJ - - - 53:613 (1980) -
THAM79101 JAC Kimura, Takashi South-west Wall of Thamserku 1979 - 75:123-132 (1980) -
THAM79101 IWA - - - 74:151-152 (1980) -
THAM79101 IWA - - - 74:36 (1980) -
THAM79101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061301/Asia-Nepal-Thamserku-Southwest-Face - - -