Thamserku | 1964 W Face-S Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Thamserku in 1964 via W Face-S Ridge, led by Edmund Hillary. Summit reached on 4th November 1964. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2516
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID THAM64301
Peak ID THAM
Year 1964
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Edmund Hillary
Sponsor Himalayan School House Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries India, UK, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1964-10-24
Summit Date 1964-11-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 14
Termination Date 1964-11-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6618
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/10,4875m),C1(25/10,5180m),C2(31/10,5800m),C3(01/11,5940m),C4(03/11,6250m),Smt(04/11)
Route Notes Crawford - 18 Nov 64 Consistency Thamserku difficult snow and ice - only one rock pitch which was a difficulty too at about 20,000 ft. C4 (20,700 ft) left 7:30 am and back from summit at 4 pm. Last part of climb difficult; steady wind, strong enough make it unpleasant. 6 climbers - 4 summiters and Wilson and Mackay. From below C3 (19,000 ft) and Sahibs had to pack camps themselves; technically too difficult for Sherpas. Remarkably similar climbing conditions to Andes: fluting, mushrooms, steepness. To Pokhara tomorrow and Delhi next day probably; back to work. Bhattacharya also leaving expedition; will return to his University tomorrow. 19 Nov 64 All 3 - Crawford, Hearfield and Bhattacharya left for Benares today. Crown Prince Birendra inspected Chaurikharka School Dec 6, 1964. Ambassadors Duff, de Malnache and Stebbins and 40 school children from last year's schools at Thangboche, Thami and Khumjung helped welcome him. Head Lama of Thyangboche monastery blessed 2 foot bridges just completed over Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi at 10,000 ft (2000 ft below Namche) Dec 7, 1964. By radio from Hillary via Mulgrew - 6 Nov 64 After Louise Thamserku climbed Nov 4 after exceptionally severe climbing requiring 4 camps, 4000 ft fixed rope, 100 ft rope ladders. Wilson of New Zealand led the assault, but summit party of 4 was Farrell, Crawford, McKinnon and Stewart all ex-New Zealand. All party well and safe; articles and photographs follow; formerly of Manchester, England. By radio from Mulgrew - 5 Nov 64 Top bits extremely difficult. Hoped very much get Sherpa to top but technically much too difficult. 2 to summit were best technical climbers and doubt any more will attempt summit. Bridge programme below Namche going very well; temporary across river now and permanent one going well with suspension going across in couple weeks. 2 bridges will greatly shorten route to Namche; will go faster. School virtually finished. Radio airstrip Karyolung Peak I. 12 Sep - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return same way: Hillary, Wilson, Mackay, Crawford, Lt. Mulgrew, Doig. II. 12 Sep - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Junbesi and return same way: Fisher, Dr Max Pearl, Farrel, Brian Hearfield, Dr Lahiri, Dr Milledge, A.K. Bhattacharya. III. 4 Oct - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return via Okhaladunga and Sun Kosi River: MacKinnon and Stewart. IV. 12 Sep - 15 Oct - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Junbesi and return same way: J.W.S Aitken. V. 6 Nov - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return same way: Lady Louise Hillary, Mrs Anna Wilson, Mrs Jane Mulgrew, Mrs Louis Pearl. Thamserku - H & D "Thamserku, a 21,000 ft mountain of fleeted snow rearing above Khumjung." "Kangtega, Tawache, Thamserku and Ama Dablam - their names conjure up a vision of climbing so difficult that one is tempted to call it impossible. For surely even man must be stopped by these terrible ice-encrusted walls and airy buttresses? McKinnon and Stewart climbers and also for physiological programme, then to look its possibilities in jet boating in Nepal through looking at Sun Kosi [jet of water which propels boat] and take photos of its rapids. For future expeditions; schools reaching saturation - rivers at best in monsoon when other trasport means worst in Nepal. Main lift leave via porters - group members (Crawford carpenter, Mackay engine, Wilson deputy leader, Mulgrew, Hillary and Doig if here) fly to Jiri and trek to Junbesi and start job there. When main lift arrives 5-6 days later ready to finish job of school quickly. Then on to Chaurikharka, where set up base to concentrate on school and airstrip. Same then arrive up to arrange rest of programme climbing mid-Oct - mid-Nov: Wilson, Crawford, Farrell, McKinnon, Stewart, Mackay and Hearfield if he comes. Milledge may also do same climbing too. Physiological party may end up Khumjung or other village around 13,000 ft; main work on Sherpas acclimatization and adjustment to altitude. Field Ent salesmen big fund raisers for expedition - prizes this year for 15 salesman - would get air ticket and 1st of these may come to Kathmandu early Dec and met here by Hillary and fly then into new strip. Bridges require type lever but longer spurs which means can have footings higher above river; wire ropes will suspend bridge; if this system works, Sherpas can in future do themselves. 19 Sept 64 Hope have test flight of new airstrip Nov 20. Crawford will come out then. Hillary will fly out 7-10 days later.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2442243
Year 1964
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-s ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Edmund Percival Hillary M 1919 New Zealand Leader Auckland, New Zealand Apiarist & alpinist Details Other expeditions
James G. (Jim) Wilson M - New Zealand Deputy Leader Christchurch, New Zealand Student, studying PhD in philosophy of religion in Benares Details Other expeditions
Donald A. (Don) Mackay M - New Zealand Climber Christchurch, New Zealand Soil conservator - will work on expedition's construction Details Other expeditions
Lynn Stewart Crawford M 1937 New Zealand Climber Christchurch, New Zealand Travel agency clerk Details Other expeditions
Peter Vincent Farrell M 1938 New Zealand Climber Christchurch, New Zealand Trainee electrician Details Other expeditions
Max Pearl M - New Zealand Exp Doctor Auckland, New Zealand Physician (general practitioner) Details Other expeditions
James Frederick Fisher M 1940 USA Non-Climber Ashland, Kentucky Peace Corps Volunteer in Nepal past 2 years Details Other expeditions
Peter David Mulgrew M 1927 New Zealand Non-Climber Auckland, New Zealand Electrical officer (on leave without pay), New Zealand Navy Details Other expeditions
Sukhamay Lahiri M 1933 India Non-Climber - PhD in physiology; on staff Presidency College, Calcutta University Details Other expeditions
James Sibree (Jim) Milledge M 1930 UK Non-Climber Kathmandu (from England) Physician (physiologist) now practising at Shanta Bhawan Details Other expeditions
Asheem K. Bhattacharya M - India Non-Climber Calcutta, India Student (submitted PhD thesis at Bikaner Medical College) Details Other expeditions
John Robert McKinnon M 1938 New Zealand Climber Temuka, New Zealand Medical student Details Other expeditions
Richard John Stewart M 1941 New Zealand Climber Dunedin, New Zealand Medical student Details Other expeditions
Bryant Hearfield M 1928 New Zealand Non-Climber Christchurch, New Zealand Structural engineer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
THAM64301 AAJ - - - 39:466 (1965) -
THAM64301 AJ MacKay, Don Thamserku - 70:90-95 (May 1965) -
THAM64301 NZAJ Stewart, R. Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition - Thamserku - 21:5-17 (1965) -
THAM64301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546601/Asia-Nepal-Tamserku - - -
THAM64301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1965_files/AJ%201965%2090-95%20Mackay%20Thamserku.pdf - - -