Thamserku | 1964 W Face-S Ridge
A New Zealand expedition to Thamserku in 1964 via W Face-S Ridge, led by Edmund Hillary. Summit reached on 4th November 1964. 14 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2516 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | THAM64301 |
| Peak ID | THAM |
| Year | 1964 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face-S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | New Zealand |
| Leaders | Edmund Hillary |
| Sponsor | Himalayan School House Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | India, UK, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1964-10-24 |
| Summit Date | 1964-11-04 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 11 |
| Total Days | 14 |
| Termination Date | 1964-11-07 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6618 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 7 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(24/10,4875m),C1(25/10,5180m),C2(31/10,5800m),C3(01/11,5940m),C4(03/11,6250m),Smt(04/11) |
| Route Notes | Crawford - 18 Nov 64 Consistency Thamserku difficult snow and ice - only one rock pitch which was a difficulty too at about 20,000 ft. C4 (20,700 ft) left 7:30 am and back from summit at 4 pm. Last part of climb difficult; steady wind, strong enough make it unpleasant. 6 climbers - 4 summiters and Wilson and Mackay. From below C3 (19,000 ft) and Sahibs had to pack camps themselves; technically too difficult for Sherpas. Remarkably similar climbing conditions to Andes: fluting, mushrooms, steepness. To Pokhara tomorrow and Delhi next day probably; back to work. Bhattacharya also leaving expedition; will return to his University tomorrow. 19 Nov 64 All 3 - Crawford, Hearfield and Bhattacharya left for Benares today. Crown Prince Birendra inspected Chaurikharka School Dec 6, 1964. Ambassadors Duff, de Malnache and Stebbins and 40 school children from last year's schools at Thangboche, Thami and Khumjung helped welcome him. Head Lama of Thyangboche monastery blessed 2 foot bridges just completed over Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi at 10,000 ft (2000 ft below Namche) Dec 7, 1964. By radio from Hillary via Mulgrew - 6 Nov 64 After Louise Thamserku climbed Nov 4 after exceptionally severe climbing requiring 4 camps, 4000 ft fixed rope, 100 ft rope ladders. Wilson of New Zealand led the assault, but summit party of 4 was Farrell, Crawford, McKinnon and Stewart all ex-New Zealand. All party well and safe; articles and photographs follow; formerly of Manchester, England. By radio from Mulgrew - 5 Nov 64 Top bits extremely difficult. Hoped very much get Sherpa to top but technically much too difficult. 2 to summit were best technical climbers and doubt any more will attempt summit. Bridge programme below Namche going very well; temporary across river now and permanent one going well with suspension going across in couple weeks. 2 bridges will greatly shorten route to Namche; will go faster. School virtually finished. Radio airstrip Karyolung Peak I. 12 Sep - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return same way: Hillary, Wilson, Mackay, Crawford, Lt. Mulgrew, Doig. II. 12 Sep - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Junbesi and return same way: Fisher, Dr Max Pearl, Farrel, Brian Hearfield, Dr Lahiri, Dr Milledge, A.K. Bhattacharya. III. 4 Oct - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return via Okhaladunga and Sun Kosi River: MacKinnon and Stewart. IV. 12 Sep - 15 Oct - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Junbesi and return same way: J.W.S Aitken. V. 6 Nov - 31 Dec - Kathmandu-Khumjung via Giri and return same way: Lady Louise Hillary, Mrs Anna Wilson, Mrs Jane Mulgrew, Mrs Louis Pearl. Thamserku - H & D "Thamserku, a 21,000 ft mountain of fleeted snow rearing above Khumjung." "Kangtega, Tawache, Thamserku and Ama Dablam - their names conjure up a vision of climbing so difficult that one is tempted to call it impossible. For surely even man must be stopped by these terrible ice-encrusted walls and airy buttresses? McKinnon and Stewart climbers and also for physiological programme, then to look its possibilities in jet boating in Nepal through looking at Sun Kosi [jet of water which propels boat] and take photos of its rapids. For future expeditions; schools reaching saturation - rivers at best in monsoon when other trasport means worst in Nepal. Main lift leave via porters - group members (Crawford carpenter, Mackay engine, Wilson deputy leader, Mulgrew, Hillary and Doig if here) fly to Jiri and trek to Junbesi and start job there. When main lift arrives 5-6 days later ready to finish job of school quickly. Then on to Chaurikharka, where set up base to concentrate on school and airstrip. Same then arrive up to arrange rest of programme climbing mid-Oct - mid-Nov: Wilson, Crawford, Farrell, McKinnon, Stewart, Mackay and Hearfield if he comes. Milledge may also do same climbing too. Physiological party may end up Khumjung or other village around 13,000 ft; main work on Sherpas acclimatization and adjustment to altitude. Field Ent salesmen big fund raisers for expedition - prizes this year for 15 salesman - would get air ticket and 1st of these may come to Kathmandu early Dec and met here by Hillary and fly then into new strip. Bridges require type lever but longer spurs which means can have footings higher above river; wire ropes will suspend bridge; if this system works, Sherpas can in future do themselves. 19 Sept 64 Hope have test flight of new airstrip Nov 20. Crawford will come out then. Hillary will fly out 7-10 days later. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2442243 |
| Year | 1964 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w face-s ridge |
Members
14 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Edmund Percival Hillary | M | 1919 | New Zealand | Leader | Auckland, New Zealand | Apiarist & alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| James G. (Jim) Wilson | M | - | New Zealand | Deputy Leader | Christchurch, New Zealand | Student, studying PhD in philosophy of religion in Benares | Details Other expeditions |
| Donald A. (Don) Mackay | M | - | New Zealand | Climber | Christchurch, New Zealand | Soil conservator - will work on expedition's construction | Details Other expeditions |
| Lynn Stewart Crawford | M | 1937 | New Zealand | Climber | Christchurch, New Zealand | Travel agency clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Vincent Farrell | M | 1938 | New Zealand | Climber | Christchurch, New Zealand | Trainee electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Max Pearl | M | - | New Zealand | Exp Doctor | Auckland, New Zealand | Physician (general practitioner) | Details Other expeditions |
| James Frederick Fisher | M | 1940 | USA | Non-Climber | Ashland, Kentucky | Peace Corps Volunteer in Nepal past 2 years | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter David Mulgrew | M | 1927 | New Zealand | Non-Climber | Auckland, New Zealand | Electrical officer (on leave without pay), New Zealand Navy | Details Other expeditions |
| Sukhamay Lahiri | M | 1933 | India | Non-Climber | - | PhD in physiology; on staff Presidency College, Calcutta University | Details Other expeditions |
| James Sibree (Jim) Milledge | M | 1930 | UK | Non-Climber | Kathmandu (from England) | Physician (physiologist) now practising at Shanta Bhawan | Details Other expeditions |
| Asheem K. Bhattacharya | M | - | India | Non-Climber | Calcutta, India | Student (submitted PhD thesis at Bikaner Medical College) | Details Other expeditions |
| John Robert McKinnon | M | 1938 | New Zealand | Climber | Temuka, New Zealand | Medical student | Details Other expeditions |
| Richard John Stewart | M | 1941 | New Zealand | Climber | Dunedin, New Zealand | Medical student | Details Other expeditions |
| Bryant Hearfield | M | 1928 | New Zealand | Non-Climber | Christchurch, New Zealand | Structural engineer | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| THAM64301 | AAJ | - | - | - | 39:466 (1965) | - |
| THAM64301 | AJ | MacKay, Don | Thamserku | - | 70:90-95 (May 1965) | - |
| THAM64301 | NZAJ | Stewart, R. | Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition - Thamserku | - | 21:5-17 (1965) | - |
| THAM64301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546601/Asia-Nepal-Tamserku | - | - | - |
| THAM64301 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1965_files/AJ%201965%2090-95%20Mackay%20Thamserku.pdf | - | - | - |