Tengi Ragi Tau | 2019 W Face-N Smt

A France expedition to Tengi Ragi Tau in 2019 via W Face-N Smt, led by Symon Welfringer. Summit reached on 28th October 2019. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10513
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TENR19302
Peak ID TENR
Year 2019
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-N Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Symon Welfringer
Sponsor Tengi Ragi Tau Expedition 2019
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland
Approach Chhetchhet->Surmuche->Beding->Tsho Rolpa->BC
Basecamp Date 2019-10-08
Summit Date 2019-10-28
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 20
Total Days 24
Termination Date 2019-11-01
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6820
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Parchamo
Campsites BC(08/10,4700m),ABC(19/10,5800m),Biv1(26/10,6100m),Biv2(72/10,6450m),N-Smt(28/10)
Route Notes Approach: 01/10 Chhetchhet, 03/10 Surmuche, 04/10 Beding, 05-06/10 Na, 07/10 Tsho Rolpa lake, 08/10 Base Camp. BC 08/10 4700m ABC 19/10 5800m (at foot of the W Face) Biv1 26/10 6100m Biv2 27/10 6450m Smt 28/10 by Symon Welfringer and Sylvan Schuepbach, at circa 2-3 pm. Pachermo acclimatization: 12 Oct: base camp to bivy at 5100m amid of the new via ferrata giving access to Drolambao Glacier (brand new cables!). Met with a whole team in Na ready to install a shelter at Tashi Lapcha in honor of David Lama. 13 Oct: bivy to ABC at 5400m. 14 Oct: passed Tashi Lapcha, slept a 100m behind it. 15 Oct: attempt until 6100m, stopped by wind slabs/avalanche risk; back to same bivy than previous night. Charles Noirot left on 18 Oct due to sickness after Parchermo climb. First attempt on W Face (by same line as second attempt): 19 Oct: up to 5800m ABC. 20 Oct: up to footstep of the face. Snowing all time. In the face lots of spindrifts, weather forecast not good for coming days. Back to BC. Second attempt and 1st ascent: 25 Oct: BC reached ABC at 5800m. 26 Oct: 2 technical ice pitches (4+/5) to reach footstep of the big snowfield that was used until a rocky “lentille” at Biv1 6100m. 27 Oct: at first 100/150m of steep snow (c.70° steep), then more technical pitches: M4, grade 5 in ice, then a crux pitch in M6 to reach Biv2 (6450m) at a good place. 28 Oct: left Biv2 at 6 am to reach summit (6820m) trough 4 or 5 mixed ground pitches (M5, with 1 or 2 in M6) and ice flutes (70° steep) in the exit where lied crux pitch of the whole route (M5/M6). Reached back to Biv2 in the night needing about 10 abseils. 29 Oct: abseiling back to ABC. 30 Oct: back to BC. New route called “Trinité” (1500m/M6/AI5), with great mixed difficulties. Route reached North Summit of Tengi Ragi Tau, which is located on Finn Map not north of “Lanmuche Kol” (6552m), but south-east to it. In total needed 38-40 abseils for the whole face in the face on abalakovs, pitons and “câbles”. Left BC on 1 November. Oxygen: not taken, not used Route: new route up the West Face “Trinité” (1500m, M6, AI5) to North Summit. Other peaks: Parchermo (not to summit, stopped at around 6050m).
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of North Summit of Tengi Ragi Tau via its West Face
Agency Holiday Himalaya Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463144
Year 2019
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-n smt

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Symon Gabriel Welfringer M 1993 France Leader Grenoble, Isere, France Engineer in Meteo France Details Other expeditions
Charles Noirot M 1991 France Climber Saint Sulpice, Tarn, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Silvan Schuepbach M 1982 Switzerland Climber Ipsach, Bern, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TENR19302 - - https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/new-route-on-tengi-ragi-tau-nepal/ - - -
TENR19302 - - https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/tengi-ragi-tau-west-face-new-route-silvan-schupbach-symon-welfringer.html - - -
TENR19302 AAJ Welfringer, Symon Tengi Ragi Tau, North Top, West Face, Trinite - 94:321 (2020) -
TENR19302 - Welfringer, Symon http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215526 - - -