Tengkoma | 2021 S Ridge from south

A Latvia expedition to Tengkoma in 2021 via S Ridge from south, led by Andris Zarins. Summit reached on 17th November 2021. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10746
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TENG21301
Peak ID TENG
Year 2021
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge from south
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Latvia
Leaders Andris Zarins
Sponsor Latvian Tengkoma Peak Climbing 2021
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Norway
Approach Taplejung->Ghunsa->BC
Basecamp Date 2021-11-15
Summit Date 2021-11-17
Summit Time 1010
Summit Days 2
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6215
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/11,5150m),HC(16/11,5350m),Smt(17/11)
Route Notes From Andris Zarins' Facebook (translated from Latvian) Hurray - our group in Nepal reached Tengkoma Peak 6215m! - 13-15/11/21: Ghunsa River valley, Jannu, Kangchenjunga Glacier, Pangpema - Northern Kangchenjunga base camp. Leaving Ghunsa village to climb again higher in Ghunsa valley, along the steep banks of Ghunsa river. Countless waterfalls are coming down from all sides. These are still the aftermath of the huge amount of snow that fell several weeks ago. Unfortunately, after the first half hour, one of the group members realizes that her health condition does not allow her to continue the way up, after a little discussion the decision was made for her to stay 3500m in Ghunsa and keep track of her health. Logistics, negotiations, goodbyes, the rest of us continue the journey. An interesting trail that is sometimes renewed, sometimes disappears. Several shrines each with its legends, where someone meditated and left an imprint in a stone, then some cave where 1000 pilgrims took refuge. Rhododendron forests are slowly disappearing and the shrub is becoming rarer. We have arrived at Kambachen 4050m - a settlement consisting of 3-4 lodges at the foot of Jannu 7711m. Jannu impressed with his northern wall - the Holy Mountain where the local sherpas refuse to climb for any reward. There have been many attempts to reach its peak, many have ended tragically. Next to the lodge settlement, the American WWF Foundation is building a research center. Something more clever than the existing lodges, but still Nepal made. Building for the second year, it is planned to be completed in a month, but there is no evidence of that. Working conditions are also challenging - 4000+m, currently +25C during the day, just when the sun disappears behind the mountain (15:00) it is +5!, at night -10C. After dinner, a little music evening when we operate the speaker Ilze brought along. Taking it easy this morning. Moving to new heights! All health condition excellent or as per existing conditions. The harsh nature of Himalayan mountains can be felt again. Let's continue to climb. Although the weather is sunny and clear, old snow can be seen all around and the cold is already more profound. The Slovak group has also shrunk to 4, because one participant has serious road problems over the years and it is no longer possible to go further. Along Ramdung and later the Kangchenjunga Glacier moraines, we reach the last lodge village Lhonak 4775m. Practically there are only two lodges here, one older with Flintstone stone stacking sheds, our younger - wooden, bright pink, fits in perfectly with the environment! In the afternoon, we climbed both up and down practically on Kangchenjunga Glacier, which is currently a huge mass of ice, rocks and dusty sand. Another sanctuary - a giant stone pole above a glacier that reminds of a special guard of this place. The pole has withstood multiple earthquakes and has not collapsed, making it automatically something magical. The evening passes calmly and you can see the mountain tops coloring in the pink tone of the sunset. Around 3:00 am outside begins to receive a strong wind blow, which is currently also inside the lodge room through the dilapidated walls. Unexpectedly and without warning! A first impression that it will impress our further progress. By the morning it is clear that the break will be substantial throughout the day, but it is not that it is impossible to pass. The wind rises up from the valley with great force, carrying the dust clouds from the dried mountain slopes. Dust is covered in everything, including the melting glacier seracs. Heading to Pangpema 5150m today - Kangchenjunga North Base Camp, the third milestone of our trek! On the way, the strong wind blows on the back, although sunny, yet the wind blows the heat away. Passing by our destination for the next days Tengkoma Peak, study it from all sides, there will be places to work. The beginning of the route could be along the steep western slope to High Camp, then along the rocky south slope to the snow area and end along the ice cap. How it will be in life - soon we will find out. Walking along the moraine uphill, a herd of mountain goats not particularly afraid of human presence as hunting is not allowed here. A beautiful white peak ahead - Nepal Peak 7177m, just as impressive is The Twins 7350m white floor and finally, from the south, Kangchenjunga range is slowly beginning to turn into a power beyond all foreseen. First you can see Kangchenjunga's highest peak at 8586m, later the Central peak at 8473m. However, the southern spike remains hidden behind Yalung Kang 7500m. Impressive ice seracs form the outskirts of the glacier and hang from steep slopes. We have reached Pangpema, shortly after the surplus of the Slovak group is also here. Their idea is to stay the night here and then walk the area. Pangpema consists of a few small stone sheds, that is all. There used to be a tea house owned by our Sherpa Nada, but it collapsed 5 years ago without enduring the earthquake. The wind is blowing in a major way. Being particularly late here does not make sense - group photos in numerous options and we turn back, now in the opposite direction. Walking down the hill in the headwind is tough. Pleased to have reached our third target and acclimatised well too. Walked 17km today with a total ascent of 1050m, all at an altitude of 4750-5150m. Someone has more exhaustion, someone less, in the evening we check the equipment again. Tomorrow we are going to Tengkoma High Camp to prepare for our final destination. Reaching the top of Tengkoma - 16-17/11/21: Another busy morning but a little more stressful this time, everyone trying to figure out what to take from the usual stuff to the mountain to leave. Some are not confident in their own strength, others take it easy. Thanks to the mountain gods who have calmed the wind and returned the mountain cold, which will be replaced by the sun in a day. It was colder tonight, the water bottle in the room completely frozen. 9:30 finally ready to face the main challenge. At the beginning, along yesterday's trail along the moraine, then quickly climbing up the slope. Only Nada knows the true route, but it's also a approximate one. He's the only one who's been here 6 times, but landslides and weather always bring new surprises. Trying to hold it together all. The rocky slope is very steep and the height makes itself noticeable with every step. On the opposite side of the Kangchenjunga Glacier, a massive avalanche of snow mass is passing from one of the northern walls, a fascinating sight. 13:30 we have arrived at High Camp 5350m. Nada has found a good shoulder on a steep slope, which is both wild enough and in the right wind. Once again we conclude how much the weather spoils! Yes, it's cold with the sun going down, but friggin cold. A tent camp is quickly being created, Travel-Lunch, boiling water, evening sunset, and of course a puddle! Puja of luck by Tserig at 5350m, great mantra chanting, Travel-Lunch rice rain over the gear and blessings. Now everything is in our own hands. 18:30 everyone is already in the tents and we are getting ready to start out tomorrow around 2:00 am. Looking forward to our strength and luck! The night is amazingly peaceful! No wind gusts, not any other sounds, except a non-falling snoring in one of the nearby tents. What a full moon! The cold has also moved aside somewhere! Maybe -5C outside, around 0C in the tent. Super! 01:00 the activity begins, of course also the mantras. Janis' fatigue and old ailments, however, prevent him from continuing the climb. The rest of us are ready. Accompanied by Tsering and Nada at 2:30 leaving! We must immediately say that this climb is different from most others because we are completely alone on the mountain! No one can say when someone has stepped here before. Perhaps no one has been here for a couple of years, without Nada's knowledge we would not be able to find the right path to Tengkoma Peak. The climb is quite difficult, but ideal weather makes it particularly enjoyable, around -7C and a little wind. The first 3h in the moon and the light of the lanterns. Stone picking and piles, also snow, climbing, leaning. Surrounded by all the great and below the Kangchenjunga glacier chaos. Sunrise climbing can already be called excellent because of the vastness of this Himalayas views and the power of nature. The height makes you notice yourself and Ilze refuses to reach the peak. Last ~200m of snow removal, knee-deep crawling and deeper! Heavy, but probably it's even better than if there was a classic ice cream, which is mainly here when you should put the ropes and be delayed even longer. Once again we are lucky. 10:10 we are up - Tengkoma Peak 6215m! Cleared the small top field out of the snow so everyone could fit. The panorama of the area is impressive! Rota, Maris, Oskars, both Andri, Tsering and Nada are taking pictures at the top! Greetings, hugs, black currant balm, a new string of Buddhist flags and countless pictures with an impressive panorama! Congratulations! Followed by a long and tiring climb, demolition of the camp and continuation of the descent to Lhonak lodge village. Strength has been given away a lot today, but the feeling of satisfaction is also there! In total, today 14h "worked" on the mountain. Everyone will have this event marked in their biographies. Tomorrow we celebrate the national holiday and also celebrate our success in the already known village of Ghunsa.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency High Mountain Himalaya Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464662
Year 2021
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge from south

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Andris Zarins M 1982 Latvia Leader Riga, Latvia - Details Other expeditions
Oskars Apsitis M 1977 Latvia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Andris Balodis M 1972 Latvia Climber Riga, Latvia - Details Other expeditions
Rota Kalnina F 1987 Latvia Climber Riga, Latvia - Details Other expeditions
Janis Kaulins M 1956 Latvia Climber Riga, Latvia - Details Other expeditions
Maris Kruz M 1977 Latvia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Iveta Rutkovska F 1969 Latvia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ilze Upeniece F 1975 Norway Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Chengha Tsering Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Panchpokhari Thanpal, Sindhupalchowk - Details Other expeditions
Ngata (Nada) Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TENG21301 - - https://www.facebook.com/andris.zarins.90 - - -