Tengi Ragi Tau East | 2019 SSW Pillar

A Spain expedition to Tengi Ragi Tau East in 2019 via SSW Pillar, led by Alberto Fernandez Santiago. Summit reached on 17th October 2019. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10510
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TENE19301
Peak ID TENE
Year 2019
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SSW Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Alberto Fernandez Santiago
Sponsor Spanish Tengi Ragi Tau East Expedition 2019
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Thami->BC
Basecamp Date 2019-10-02
Summit Date 2019-10-17
Summit Time 0800
Summit Days 15
Total Days 17
Termination Date 2019-10-19
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6675
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Parchamo (to 5800m)
Campsites BC(02/10,4330m),ABC(13/10,5100m),Biv1(14/10,6000m),Biv2(15/10,6250m),Biv3(16/10,6550m),Smt(17/10)
Route Notes BC 02/10 4330m at foot of TENE ABC 13/10 5100m Biv1 14/10 6000m Biv2 15/10 6250m Biv3 16/10 6550m Smt 17/20 by all members. Acclimatized around Parchermo, staying for nights at 5500m, Tashi Lapcha (5600m). Tried for Parchermo's normal route, reaching a high point of 5800m on 10 Oct; abandonment caused by wind slabs danger. Previously had an incident with a Sherpa from a trekkers group who stole one of their tents. Intended first to climb West Face of Tengi Ragi Tau East, but when saw various ropes staying there changed their mind for east summit SSW pillar, climbed by a French team in 2005. 13 Oct: BC to ABC at 5100m, at foot of difficulties. 14 Oct: 5100m to 6000m on the pillar. Left Parchermo trail to walk up by glacier below the West Face of the SSW Pillar. Strated with snow/mixed ground (not too hard: 60° steep, few mixed steps). Reaching the pillar, the trio would continue up by some rock pitches to reach their bivy. 15 Oct: mostly met with rock difficulties (up to 6a/6b) on beautiful granite; then had few snow and mixed ground (few steps) pitches until reaching second bivouac at 6250m. 16 Oct: started with poor snow quality; then had nice rock pitches and 1 M6 pitch before reaching the final snow ridge at 6400m. Slept at 6550m. 17 Oct: continued to follow the snowy ridge. With a late monsoon, was lots of snow on the ridge, not transformed, which happened to be the crux part of the whole route. Summited at 8 am, then abseiled and down-climbed until ABC, reached at 6 pm. 18 Oct: back to BC. 19 Oct: left BC. Oxygen: not taken, not used Records: 1st repeat of SSW Pillar avec variante d'attaque?
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Annapurna Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463133
Year 2019
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ssw pillar

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alberto Fernandez Santiago M 1988 Spain Leader Elgoibar, Guipuzkoa, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Roger Cararach Soler M 1986 Spain Climber Montserrat, Catalonia, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marc Antoni Toralles Ibanez M 1982 Spain Climber Sant Cugat Del Valles, Catalonia, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TENE19301 - - https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/primera-repeticion-y-en-estilo-alpino-del-pilar-sur-de-la-punta-este-del-tengi-ragi-tau-6660-m/ - - -