Tawoche | 1987 SE Face-SE Ridge (to 6350m)

A UK expedition to Tawoche in 1987 via SE Face-SE Ridge (to 6350m), led by Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 2nd October 1987. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 284
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TAWO87301
Peak ID TAWO
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-SE Ridge (to 6350m)
Route 2 E Face (to 5500m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Malcolm Duff
Sponsor British Tawoche Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Pheriche
Basecamp Date 1987-09-14
Summit Date 1987-10-02
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6350m due danger snow slabs and eventually to Duff's illness
High Point (m) 6350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/09,4250m),ABC1(16/09,5200m),ABC2(04/10,5200m),xxx(02/10,6350m)
Route Notes BC in valley across river from Pheriche ABC.1 southeast of mountain for SE Face attempt ABC.2 at Tawoche Glacier for East Face attempt High point 150m below final summit. ABC at 5200m for SE Face climb and over next week got 2 clients to 6100m on route on which Duff and Black fixed rope for them but no higher camps pitched, then clients ran out of steam and they left BC 24th Sept leaving Duff and Black (no one from Ama Dablam joined them). Black and Duff went back up and started from ABC 11 pm 1st Oct, climbed all night and got to 6350m on the final summit slope at 8:30 am on 2nd. Did not climb final slope of 150 vertical meters because of danger smow slabs. Immediately descended to BC which reached at 6 pm on 2nd. On 4th moved tent for E Face attempt, 1 km away from old ABC and placed it at same altitude at foot of Tawoche glacier, but now Duff suffering from effects of huge tapeworm. Scrambled 300m upwards on 6th and stayed in a camp there. 12th heard some Ama Dablam climbers missing and went to see; they weren't. But Duff getting worse, so no further climbing.
Accidents Duff tapeworm; nothing else
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450633
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-se ridge (to 6350m)

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Richard Best M 1961 UK Climber Plymouth, Devon, England Project assistant, civil engineering Details Other expeditions
Andrew Robert (Andy) Black M 1959 UK Deputy Leader Edinburgh, Scotland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Malcolm (Mal) Duff M 1953 UK Leader Culross, Fife, Scotland Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Betty Hall F 1952 UK Climber Beith, Ashire, Scotland Supervisor, project Details Other expeditions
James Hall M 1954 UK Climber Beith, Ashire, Scotland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Richard Nowack M 1940 USA Climber Julian, California Dishwasher Details Other expeditions
John Wilson Parnham M 1957 UK Climber Snitterfield, Warwick, England Teacher Details Other expeditions
Richard George Parsley M 1959 UK Climber Weston-super-Mare, Avon, England Welder Details Other expeditions
Nicholas Paish M 1964 UK Climber London, England Student, medical Details Other expeditions
Gwyn Roberts M 1960 UK Climber Bangor, Gwynedd, Wales Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TAWO87301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 62:199-200 (1988) -
TAWO87301 MM - - - 120:11 (Mar 1988) -
TAWO87301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819904/Asia-Nepal-Tawoche-Attempt - - -