Tawoche | 1987 SE Face-SE Ridge (to 6350m)
A UK expedition to Tawoche in 1987 via SE Face-SE Ridge (to 6350m), led by Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 2nd October 1987. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 284 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | TAWO87301 |
| Peak ID | TAWO |
| Year | 1987 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Face-SE Ridge (to 6350m) |
| Route 2 | E Face (to 5500m) |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Malcolm Duff |
| Sponsor | British Tawoche Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | USA |
| Approach | Pheriche |
| Basecamp Date | 1987-09-14 |
| Summit Date | 1987-10-02 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 18 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6350m due danger snow slabs and eventually to Duff's illness |
| High Point (m) | 6350 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(14/09,4250m),ABC1(16/09,5200m),ABC2(04/10,5200m),xxx(02/10,6350m) |
| Route Notes | BC in valley across river from Pheriche ABC.1 southeast of mountain for SE Face attempt ABC.2 at Tawoche Glacier for East Face attempt High point 150m below final summit. ABC at 5200m for SE Face climb and over next week got 2 clients to 6100m on route on which Duff and Black fixed rope for them but no higher camps pitched, then clients ran out of steam and they left BC 24th Sept leaving Duff and Black (no one from Ama Dablam joined them). Black and Duff went back up and started from ABC 11 pm 1st Oct, climbed all night and got to 6350m on the final summit slope at 8:30 am on 2nd. Did not climb final slope of 150 vertical meters because of danger smow slabs. Immediately descended to BC which reached at 6 pm on 2nd. On 4th moved tent for E Face attempt, 1 km away from old ABC and placed it at same altitude at foot of Tawoche glacier, but now Duff suffering from effects of huge tapeworm. Scrambled 300m upwards on 6th and stayed in a camp there. 12th heard some Ama Dablam climbers missing and went to see; they weren't. But Duff getting worse, so no further climbing. |
| Accidents | Duff tapeworm; nothing else |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450633 |
| Year | 1987 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se face-se ridge (to 6350m) |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Richard Best | M | 1961 | UK | Climber | Plymouth, Devon, England | Project assistant, civil engineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew Robert (Andy) Black | M | 1959 | UK | Deputy Leader | Edinburgh, Scotland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Malcolm (Mal) Duff | M | 1953 | UK | Leader | Culross, Fife, Scotland | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Betty Hall | F | 1952 | UK | Climber | Beith, Ashire, Scotland | Supervisor, project | Details Other expeditions |
| James Hall | M | 1954 | UK | Climber | Beith, Ashire, Scotland | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Richard Nowack | M | 1940 | USA | Climber | Julian, California | Dishwasher | Details Other expeditions |
| John Wilson Parnham | M | 1957 | UK | Climber | Snitterfield, Warwick, England | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Richard George Parsley | M | 1959 | UK | Climber | Weston-super-Mare, Avon, England | Welder | Details Other expeditions |
| Nicholas Paish | M | 1964 | UK | Climber | London, England | Student, medical | Details Other expeditions |
| Gwyn Roberts | M | 1960 | UK | Climber | Bangor, Gwynedd, Wales | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TAWO87301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 62:199-200 (1988) | - |
| TAWO87301 | MM | - | - | - | 120:11 (Mar 1988) | - |
| TAWO87301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819904/Asia-Nepal-Tawoche-Attempt | - | - | - |