Tawoche | 2009 S Central Buttress

A USA expedition to Tawoche in 2009 via S Central Buttress, led by Cory Richards. Summit reached on 16th January 2009. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6706
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TAWO09401
Peak ID TAWO
Year 2009
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Central Buttress
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Cory Richards
Sponsor Richards-Ozturk Taboche Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 15th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Namche->Phortse->Pangboche
Basecamp Date 2009-01-11
Summit Date 2009-01-16
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 5
Total Days 7
Termination Date 2009-01-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6495
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/01,5200m),Biv1(14/01,5700m),Biv2(15/01,6100m),Smt(16/01)
Route Notes BC was established on 11 January at 5200m on a glacial meadow northwest of Pt 5315m of the SE Ridge and below the ridge, which they did not climb. Instead they made a new route on the South Central Buttress in three days of climbing with two bivouacs directly to the main summit (about 6500m). Their first day's climb ended on 14 January at a bivouac at 5700m, which they placed on a ledge on the buttress. They had climbed without taking any water with them because they had expected to find snow at the bivouac site, but there was none; they went 24 hours without water. On the 15th they gained 400m in altitude on the buttress. Their second bivouac site at 6100m was near the top of the buttress at a line of seracs. Here they chipped ice from a serac to melt for water. On 16 January they went to the summit. They left the bivouac at 7:30 am after waiting for sunshine and, using one ice tool in each hand, moved up an ice face to 6300m (at one place on the face they climbed through a vertical hole in the ice). The ice face led them to the summit, which they reached at 2:00 pm. The day was not very cold and there was no wind at that altitude. They were back in their second bivouac that night and in BC on the 17th. In their descent via their ascent route, their rappel rope got caught on bare rock; they had to cut most of it off, which left them with only 20m for the last part of their steep descent on rock. Before going to BC, they had been to Pangboche, which had a good view of Taboche's west side. A local yak herder told them that the mountain from that side was called Chaluk, just as Everest had different name for its north and south sides.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Shangri-La Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458432
Year 2009
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s central buttress

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Renan Evrim Ozturk M 1980 USA Climber Barrington, Rhode Island Alpinist, video-photographer & artist Details Other expeditions
Courtney Woodward (Cory) Richards M 1981 USA Leader Red Lodge, Montana Photographer & climber Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TAWO09401 - - http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10w/newswire-tawoche-south-ozturk-richards - - -