Tarke Kang Shar | 1981 N Face

A Italy expedition to Tarke Kang Shar in 1981 via N Face, led by Gabriele Marzorati. Summit reached on 10th October 1981. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9759
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TARS81301
Peak ID TARS
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Gabriele Marzorati
Sponsor Italian Expedition to Glacier Dome
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dumre->Manang
Basecamp Date 1981-10-02
Summit Date 1981-10-10
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 8
Total Days 11
Termination Date 1981-10-13
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7069
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/10,3830m),C1(04/10,4570m),C2(06/10,5000m),C3(07/10,5460m),C4(09/10,6000m),Smt(10/10)
Route Notes Note: This team thought they were climbing Glacier Dome, but were actually climbing the 7069m peak east of Glacier Dome (now called Tarke Kang II). Reached summit 10th Oct 11:00 am by 2 ropes (3 members and Gombu Sherpa). 6 Italians and 3 Nepalese climbers to Dumre 22 Sept. Braga 30th Sept after 4 days rain. Had to send recce to find route to BC because photos were of wrong peak. BC 3830m 2 Oct C1 4570m 4 Oct C2 5000m 6 Oct Near deposit camp of Japanese Gangapurna 7th Oct over 5520m summit and to C3 5460m correct route discovered. 1600m ice wall from C3 to top. Summiters on Oct 9th put C4 at 6000-6200m in crevasse. 10th Oct 4 on summit and to C4. 11th Oct all to BC except Roncaglioni and Schranz and found them sleeping at Japanese Gangapurna deposit camp at 5000m because Sherpas had packed up C3. Difficulty was to find right route. Wall not difficult but very, very long which meant very slow descent. Last night all returned. No accidents or avalanche. Oxygen not used. Route = N Wall; no North Ridge exists; a ridge to East goes to Gangapurna and another to West Roc Noir. Glacier Dome (Italy) - 12 Oct 81 Summit - NE Ridge route 7193m. 10th Oct at 11:00 am on top by 3 Italians and 1 Sherpa Marzorati - 16 Sept 81 Altitude maybe 7193m but Annapurna II route East Ridge from N - new route. Approach from from Manang village. BC of center of Gangapurna N Ridge. Then climb up to c5900m and over ridge and down its west side on glacier and on to Glacier Dome's East Ridge. BC about 4900m. C1 5700 on glacier of Gangapurna. North Ridge and N of Glacier Dome. E Ridge. C2 c6500m either on or little earlier E Ridge. Don't think a 3rd camp necessary. Other 5 arrived 21 Sept. Leave KTM 22 or 23 by road to Dumre. 9 days to Manang from KTM and 3 days Manang BC. 3 Sherpas above BC. Gombu = Sirdar Pemba Gyalzen Pasang Temba 6 oxygen only for sleeping perhaps but not climbing. Expedition has no name.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450469
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gabriele Marzorati M 1938 Italy Leader Milano, Italy Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Claudio Schranz M 1949 Italy Climbing Leader Macugnaga, Novara, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Silvano Cairoli M 1948 Italy Exp Doctor Milano, Italy Medical student Details Other expeditions
Riccardo Morandi M 1952 Italy Climber Macugnaga, Novara, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marco Roncaglioni M 1955 Italy Climber Laveno, Varese, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gianfranco (Gianni) Tagliaferri M 1949 Italy Climber Macugnaga, Novara, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gombu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Temba Sherpa M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Ghat, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TARS81301 AAJ Moro, Renato - - 56:234 (1982) -
TARS81301 HJ Marzorati, Gabriele The First Ascent of Glacier Dome North Face - 39:175-177 (1981-1982) -
TARS81301 MM - - - 83:9 (Jan 1982) -
TARS81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223401/Asia-Nepal-Glacier-Dome-North-Face - - -
TARS81301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/39/23/expeditions-and-notes-39/ - - -