Taple Shikhar | 1998 S Face-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Taple Shikhar in 1998 via S Face-SE Ridge, led by Nori Miyazawa. Summit reached on 8th October 1998. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3221
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TAPL98301
Peak ID TAPL
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Nori Miyazawa
Sponsor Cross Peak Two-Person Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-09-23
Summit Date 1998-10-08
Summit Time 1255
Summit Days 15
Total Days 18
Termination Date 1998-10-11
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6447
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1200
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/09,4960m),C1(28/09,5100m),C2(01/10,5600m),C3(07/10,6000m+),Smt(08/10)
Route Notes BC at Pangpema C1 at junction of Kangchenjunga and Gimmigela Glacier C2 at lower part of South Face C3 on rock ridge of South Face. Route to C2 across steep small face where avalanches and stone fall descend (but no one hurt) at lower part of South Face of Taple Shikhar (Cross Peak). Arrived C2 on 1 Oct and stayed there six nights while snow falling Oct 1-3. 4 Oct two Sherpas going up to see route and fix it and worked on route three days. 7th Oct C3 occupied and 8th Oct to top at 12:55 pm - slept in C3 that night, in C1 9th Oct in BC 10 Oct. Mr Miyazawa stayed in BC throughout climb. Climb "very difficult for me but Sherpas helped me and thanks to the Sherpa I got to summit." Mrs. Miyazawa was last on summit from summit party. "I very lucky, protected by God." Doug Scott - 15 Oct 1998 Mr Miyazawa drank heavily and was found one day "flat out" on glacier. Mrs Miyazawa and Sherpa to top at 1:00 pm 8 Oct. When they left BC several days later, were accompanied by 6 policeman to Ghunsa (where helicopter evacuated them). 4 Nov 1998 - Kangchenjunga leader Comerie said it was a party of Japanese who was found flat out.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement 1st ascent
Agency Yeti Mountaineering & Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454668
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face-se ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Misako Miyazawa F 1933 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Secretary at Japanese Alpine Club Details Other expeditions
Nori Miyazawa M 1927 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan President of building construction company Details Other expeditions
Pemba Lama Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Gumba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kancha Sunwar Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TAPL98301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 73:384 (1999) -
TAPL98301 HIGH - - - 198:43 (May 1999) -
TAPL98301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199938401/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-Himal-Taple-Shikhar-First-Ascent - - -