Taple Shikhar | 1963 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Taple Shikhar in 1963 via W Ridge, led by Ken Miyazawa. Summit reached on 1st June 1963. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2693
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TAPL63101
Peak ID TAPL
Year 1963
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 S Face
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Ken Miyazawa
Sponsor Tokyo Agricultural University
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1963-04-28
Summit Date 1963-06-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 34
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Gimmigela Chuli (GIMM-631-01); climbed Tsisima (TSIS-631-01) and Tsisima S Peak (both 1st ascents)
Campsites BC(28/04,5100m),C1(5200m),C2(5600m),xxx(01/06,6400m)
Route Notes Kogo, Twin Peaks Expedition 1st 3 members return KTM 10 days ago, Kogo came 3 days. 1 member to Calcutta already and another tomorrow and Kogo day after. All reach Japan 11th July. Not able reach summit because last of May very bad weather. From C5 wanted to reach summit but for 7 days had storm strong wind and heavy snow. C5 7000m. 2 members stayed there: 1 leader and 2 subleader for 3 days. Summit 7350m (3.3 ft=1 metre). Lack of supplies forced them abandon attempt about 25th May Sent porters to climb: 1) 6510m Taple Shikhar (Cross Peak) very hard rock and ice and very steep. Climbed 16 hours one day but reached only 1500m from peak - June 1st. Climbers, leader and Sherpa Ang Phurba from Namche - had to descend by Tyrolean traverse. 2) Sherpa Kunga Norbu from Namche and Kogo went to try Tsisima peak and its South Peak 6390m - more peaks 6800m - south peak. On 3rd June - reached both summits - 5800m was last camp; that explored Yangma Khola (Valley) near Kangchenjunga. Not so difficult as Twins but 120m knife ridge very bad: had to cut off snow top of ridge - ridge at 6000m. Many crevasses near summit very dangerous but only technical difficulty was ridge. Kogo came to Nepal April 62 but this his first climb. Tokyo Agricultural University Expedition and climbing Twins of Kangchenjunga massif members: 1) Ken Miyazawa 35 2) H. Muraida 29 3) Hayashi Komoda 25 4) M. Kogo 23 5) K. Miyazaki 22 Dr. S Tamura (physician) 34 Leave Biratnagar about April 1st research on agriculture crops, soil, winemaking, etc. as well as climbing - all members both mountaineers and researchers (ex dr. who only climbs and cares for health). Financed by Tokyo Agriculture University Peaks never climbed before but 3 reconnaisance from Sikkim side.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member True
Primary Reference True
Primary ID GIMM63101
Checksum 2441720
Year 1963
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ken Miyazawa M - Japan Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Motohiko Kogo M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Muraida M - Japan Deputy Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Hayashi (Yasushi) Komoda M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Kouichi Miyazaki M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Senichi Tamura M - Japan Exp Doctor - Physician Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.