Swelokhan | 2005 S Face (to 5200m)

A Japan expedition to Swelokhan in 2005 via S Face (to 5200m), led by Sadamu Kitagawa. Summit reached on 3rd May 2005. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5004
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SWEL05101
Peak ID SWEL
Year 2005
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (to 5200m)
Route 2 SW Face-NW Ridge (to 5800m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Sadamu Kitagawa
Sponsor Kitagawa Swelokhan Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marshyangdi River->Dudh Khola->Larkya La, east to Samdo->Buri Gandaki
Basecamp Date 2005-04-26
Summit Date 2005-05-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 7
Total Days 14
Termination Date 2005-05-10
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5800m due to impossible route
High Point (m) 5800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 120
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC.1(26/04,4415m),xxx(27/04,5200m);BC.2(30/04,4435m),C1(29/04,5400m),xxx(03/05,5800m)
Route Notes 1st BC west of point 5181 and south of point 5314 on the map 2nd BC slightly higher, northwest of 1st BC C1 on SW Face High point at SW Face. Plan to attack mountain via South Face so 1st BC pitched (south of South Face: 27 April). Kitagawa and Dorchi Sherpa went to 5000m and down to 1st BC: went up very steep glacier: at 5200m glacier stopped and above way been overhanging rock so not possible to climb that. Made 2nd BC only 20m higher and half hour walk to 2nd BC site slightly northwest of 1st BC on 30th April. Had made a high camp on 29th from 1st BC at 5000m on SW Face; only Dorchi down to 1st BC and he and Kitagawa made 2nd BC. 2 May both to C1. 3rd May both climbed to 5800m on NW Ridge at 10:00 am, 5 hours of the leaving C1. NW Ridge very narrow knife ridge with vertical drops on both north and south sides; mostly unstable loose rock with some fresh snow; this was impossible, so down to C1 to sleep and climb finished. South Face is possible for technical climb with proper climbing gear, says Kitagawa. Shogo never reached BC (altitude sickness).
Accidents -
Achievement 1st attempt on mountain
Agency Marvel Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457074
Year 2005
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face (to 5200m)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sadamusa (Sadamo) Kitagawa M 1951 Japan Leader Yasu-ku, Shiga, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Hiroh Shogo M 1964 Japan Climber Hiroshima, Japan Studying Nepalese & Chinese language in Ktm for about six months Details Other expeditions
Chhiring Dorchi Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SWEL05101 CLIM - - - 17:74 (Jul 2006) -
SWEL05101 AAJ Nakamura, Tom - - 80:405-406 (2006) -
SWEL05101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200640502/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Kutang-Himal-Swelokan-South-Face-and-Northwest-Ridge-Attempts - - -