Serku Dolma | 1973 NW Ridge from E

A Japan expedition to Serku Dolma in 1973 via NW Ridge from E, led by Eiji Kawamura. Summit reached on 30th October 1973. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2335
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SRKU73301
Peak ID SRKU
Year 1973
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge from E
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Eiji Kawamura
Sponsor Kitasato University Himalayan Expedition 1973
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jumla->Hurikot->Kagmara La->Ringmo->Phoksundo Khola
Basecamp Date 1973-09-28
Summit Date 1973-10-30
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 32
Total Days 43
Termination Date 1973-11-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6227
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,4395m),C1(15/10,5200m),C2(21/10,5480m),C3(25/10,5800m),C4(29/10,5815m),Smt(30/10)
Route Notes Yago - 24 Nov 73 Rest of expedition arrive KTM 10 Dec by air plane from Khumbu; now trekking (research of lake and mountain). All are very well. Same peak as climbed by Japanese in 1970 but different route: 1970 South Face, 1973 East Ridge. East Ridge route "little difficult" - icefall and then very steep ridge. Moriyama and Takechi reached summit from C4 5950m. On summit 11:30 am and stayed 1 hour. Very good weather, no wind this only summit attempt. No accident, no frostbite, no illness, no yeti. C4 established 29 Oct (only 3 members reached C4): Moriyama, Takechi and Anu. Ichikawa, Phurba Tensing and Dorje went to North Smt on Oct 29. Yago has to return his job 20th, so leaves KTM 27th. MFA - 30 Oct 73 C2 5480m, 5 Kartik=21 Oct C1 5200m, 29 Asash=15 Oct BC 13 Asosh=29 Sept Bad weather delayed reaching C2 from C1. Succeed in 2-3 weeks. Dr. Kawamura, letter - 29 Sept 73 Reached BC 28 Sept 3 pm at 4395mm Think monsoon already over on 28th. Start climbing on 30th. 1st wanted BC at Phurpunde but found it impossible to climb from there, so changed to Phoksundo Col. Dr. Kuwamura & Yago - 19 Aug 73 1st time for all in Nepal; arrive 1st 31 July and rest 17 Aug. Charter to Jumla 1st week Sept by RNAC. 3 others caravan. 2 weeks to BC via Phoksundo Lake west side up Phoksundo Khola to BC 3 Oct about 4000m. Route via 5500m, south of Tso Kharpi Kang (21,509) mtn glacier. 1st route from East Ridge; if not possible from South Face (which Osaka City Univ climbed). Via East Ridge, 7 camps and summit 25 Oct. 3 Sherpas and 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy (and 2 mailrunners to Jumla to Ranjan) Return last week of November from Jumla by charter plane.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445534
Year 1973
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge from e

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eiji Kawamura M 1927 Japan Leader Yokohama, Japan Surgeon at Kitasato University Hospital Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Yago M 1947 Japan Deputy Leader Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Pharmacist at Kitasato University Hospital Details Other expeditions
Mitsuhiro Kikuchi M 1947 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Eiken Moriyama M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Postgraduate student in pharmacy, Kitasato University Details Other expeditions
Hiromi Ichikawa M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan 4th-year student of pharmacology, Kitasato University Details Other expeditions
Morihiro Takechi M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan 3rd-year student in pharmacology, Kitasato University Details Other expeditions
Anu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SRKU73301 AAJ Kawamura, Eiji - - 48:209 (1974) -
SRKU73301 HJ Kawamura, Eiji The Ascent of Serku Dholma and Exploration of Phoksumdo Tal - 33:63-76 (1973-74) -
SRKU73301 JAC Kawamura, Eiji The Ascent of Serku Dholma, 1973 - 70:18-19 (1975) -
SRKU73301 MM - - - 31:9 (Jan 1974) -
SRKU73301 JAC Kawamura, Eiji The Ascent of Serku Dholma, 1973 - 70:182-198 (1975) -
SRKU73301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420902/Asia-Nepal-P-20430-Kanjiroba-Himal - - -
SRKU73301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/14/the-ascent-of-serku-dholma-and-exploration-of-the-east-and-southeast-areas-of-phoksumdo-tal-1973/ - - -