Sharphu II | 2018 E Face (up); N Ridge (down)

A Lithuania expedition to Sharphu II in 2018 via E Face (up); N Ridge (down), led by Aivaras Sajus. Summit reached on 26th October 2018. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10135
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SPH218301
Peak ID SPH2
Year 2018
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face (up); N Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Lithuania
Leaders Aivaras Sajus
Sponsor Lithuanian-American Sharphu II Expedition 2018
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Kanchenjunga BC->Khambachen
Basecamp Date 2018-10-16
Summit Date 2018-10-26
Summit Time 1030
Summit Days 10
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2018-11-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6328
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/10,4550m),Biv1(22/10,5600m),Biv2(24/10,5880m),Biv3(25/10,6260m),Smt(26/10),Biv4(26/10)
Route Notes Camp Coordinates: C1: N 27.757616, E 87.925472 C2: N 27.757663, E 87.922951 C3: N 27.757104, E 87.919571 Smt: N 27.758384, E 87.919228, 6328m C4: N 27.765087, E 87.924086 Team set out from C3 at 9 am and summited at 10:30 am, then descended separate line (N Ridge) to Camp 4, reached at 5:30 pm. We climbed the East Face and descended the North Ridge. We had considered descending the same line of descent, but had scouted the alternative snowy North Ridge. We realized it would be time consuming and dangerous to rappel and downclimb the line of ascent because of complicated terrain, multiple required rappels, and some observed rockfall. ED2, AI5 M6. From Camp 1 at base of East Face, followed 2 gully systems through 4 cliffbands with ice and mixed climbing to pass each cliff band. Switched gullies to the north after 2 cliffbands via a snowfield. 10 pitched-out pitches, about 14 simulclimbed pitches of steep snow to 90 degrees. 8cm of snow the first night. Temperatures down to -25C at night at Camp 3, with steady 25 knot winds on summit ridge. Several solid ice pitches, some loose rock on mixed pitches. One rockfall event down lower line of ascent after passing. 5 full-length rappels and steep downclimbing to descend.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Magical Nepal
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463721
Year 2018
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face (up); n ridge (down)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Aivaras Sajus M 1978 Lithuania/USA Leader San Jose, California Physical therapist Details Other expeditions
Spencer Micheal Gray M 1986 USA Climber Great Falls, Montana Energy professional Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SPH218301 AAJ Gray, Spencer Sharphu II, East Face, Samsara - 93:326-327 (2019) -
SPH218301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215083 - - -