Sharphu I | 1963 E side

A Japan expedition to Sharphu I in 1963 via E side, led by Kenji Ishihara. Summit reached on 22nd October 1963. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9944
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SPH163301
Peak ID SPH1
Year 1963
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E side
Route 2 S Face
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kenji Ishihara
Sponsor Tokyo-Osaka University Joint Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 1st-3rd
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1963-10-12
Summit Date 1963-10-22
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 10
Total Days 16
Termination Date 1963-10-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6433
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 1000
Total Members 11
Summit Members 10
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Tsisima (TSIS-633-01) and Syamdo Kangri (1st); attempted Drohmo (DROM-633-01), Talung (TLNG-633-01) and Merra (MERR-633-01); climbed 2 Tibetan peaks in Ombak Himal (OMBK-633-01)
Campsites BC(12/10,4100m),C1(14/10,5000m),C2(16/10,5900m),C3(20/10,6500m),Smt(22-23,25/10)
Route Notes Japanese estimated peak altitude to be 6553m; current HMG-Finnish map shows altitude of 6433m. Hirotani - 12 Sept 63 1st day 22nd Oct - Tatsumi, Miyamoto, Ishinabe attack from C3, 6 am reached peak 1:30 pm very fixed rope 200m. 2nd day 23rd Oct - Hirai, Mori, Dr Kasamatsu and 2 Sherpas Dorje and Ang Tharkey from Namche. 3rd day 25th Oct - Hirano, Hirotani, Hioki, Takahashi and Sirdar Ang Tshering and Dogba [Lhakpa??] Tensing. About 24,000 ft Climbed via south. Tried east first, but very difficult, so went via newly discovered Sharphu Glacier where made C1, C2 and C3 - highest C3 at 6500m. No accidents. Needed many fixed ropes on south side (1000m). At base separated in 2 parties. To Kathmandu: Hirotani, Hioki, Takahashi, Hirai, Mori, Kasamatsu; Hirotani leaves Thursday via Biratnagar and Cal (on Tokyo); others to Kathmandu via Namche early Feb. Most difficult part from C2->C3 - very steep, ice and rock mixed. C2 at 5900m C1 at 5000m BC 4100m 1st party left base Oct 20 for final assault. From Kangbachen Base Camp 16 Oct Sharphu Himal Started 27 Sept with 75 porters from Dharan. After 16 days (12 Oct) arrive base camp at 4150 meters. Wish to climb via East Face but could find no route there, so from SE Ridge and up col to South Face of Sharphu Glacier. 14th Oct established C1 just below Col at about 5000m. Return end Nov. Letter from T. Kasamatsu to Tamura post marked 19 Sept 1965 from Purnea gave return address as C/O British Camp Dharan, Eastern Nepal Ishihara - 10 Sept 63 Expedition's liaison officer Janardan Raj Bhandary (who says he was with Peter Taylor and that the Ang Tharkey with Sharphu Expedition is not same as with Herzog). Ishihara leaves Kathmandu for Calcutta today. Expedition leaves Calcutta for Biratnagar 16 Sept. Liaison officer and Sherpas fly Kathmandu-Biratnagar 15 Sept. Hirano and 3 others will come to KTM in Feb. Hirano - 3 Sept 63 Tokyo Metropolitan University and Osaka Prefecture University from Tokyo-Osaka. Osaka Prefecture University climbed Mt. Nupchu last year and discovered Sharphu whose exact height not known. So want try climb it instead; both Talung and Sharphu virgin peaks; both near Kangchenjunga (Talung on Sikkim-Nepal border; Sharphu little west of border). Leader and 2 members here in Kathmandu. Arrived yesterday. Rest are still in Japan. All arrive Calcutta about 9th Sept. Mid-Sept all to Biratnagar and thence to mountain. Each member doing our field of scientific work also. Also members except 68-year-old leader will climb. Reach base camp beginning Oct; mid or end Oct reach peak. Ishihara - 6 Sept Expedition Sherpas: Dorje Sherpa Ang Tharkey
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443798
Year 1963
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e side

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kenji Ishihara M - Japan Leader - PhD of engineering, Mgr of Tokyo Branch of Japanese Alpine Club Details Other expeditions
Masahito Hirano M - Japan Deputy Leader - Bachelor of economy member of Namura Shipyard Co. Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Hirotani M - Japan Climbing Leader - Bachelor of Science Details Other expeditions
Susumu Hioki M - Japan Climber - Master of engineering Details Other expeditions
Takayuki Hirai M - Japan Climber - Bachelor of Science Details Other expeditions
Takao Ishinabe M - Japan Climber - Bachelor of Science Details Other expeditions
Takuji Kasamatsu M - Japan Climber - Physician Details Other expeditions
Chiharu Miyamoto M - Japan Climber - Bachelor of arts Details Other expeditions
Michihiko Mori M - Japan Climber - Student at Osaka Prefectural University Details Other expeditions
Chutaro Takahashi M - Japan Climber - Bachelor of Science, Vice president of Takahashi Manufacturing Co. Details Other expeditions
Yuzo Tatsumi M - Japan Climber - Student at Osaka Prefectural University Details Other expeditions
Ang Tharkay Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M 1910 Nepal Sirdar Darjeeling, India - Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Kathmandu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa M - Nepal Cook Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SPH163301 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 38:227 (1964) -
SPH163301 JAC Hirano, Masahito Sharphu and North-East Nepal, 1963-64 - 59:3-7 (1964) -
SPH163301 JAC Hirano, Masahito Sharphu and North-East Nepal, 1963-64 - 59:72-119 (1964) -
SPH163301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196422701/Asia-Nepal-Sharphu - - -