Sharphu I | 1963 E side
A Japan expedition to Sharphu I in 1963 via E side, led by Kenji Ishihara. Summit reached on 22nd October 1963. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 9944 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | SPH163301 |
| Peak ID | SPH1 |
| Year | 1963 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | E side |
| Route 2 | S Face |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Kenji Ishihara |
| Sponsor | Tokyo-Osaka University Joint Himalayan Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | 1st-3rd |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1963-10-12 |
| Summit Date | 1963-10-22 |
| Summit Time | 1330 |
| Summit Days | 10 |
| Total Days | 16 |
| Termination Date | 1963-10-28 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6433 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1000 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 10 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 4 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Tsisima (TSIS-633-01) and Syamdo Kangri (1st); attempted Drohmo (DROM-633-01), Talung (TLNG-633-01) and Merra (MERR-633-01); climbed 2 Tibetan peaks in Ombak Himal (OMBK-633-01) |
| Campsites | BC(12/10,4100m),C1(14/10,5000m),C2(16/10,5900m),C3(20/10,6500m),Smt(22-23,25/10) |
| Route Notes | Japanese estimated peak altitude to be 6553m; current HMG-Finnish map shows altitude of 6433m. Hirotani - 12 Sept 63 1st day 22nd Oct - Tatsumi, Miyamoto, Ishinabe attack from C3, 6 am reached peak 1:30 pm very fixed rope 200m. 2nd day 23rd Oct - Hirai, Mori, Dr Kasamatsu and 2 Sherpas Dorje and Ang Tharkey from Namche. 3rd day 25th Oct - Hirano, Hirotani, Hioki, Takahashi and Sirdar Ang Tshering and Dogba [Lhakpa??] Tensing. About 24,000 ft Climbed via south. Tried east first, but very difficult, so went via newly discovered Sharphu Glacier where made C1, C2 and C3 - highest C3 at 6500m. No accidents. Needed many fixed ropes on south side (1000m). At base separated in 2 parties. To Kathmandu: Hirotani, Hioki, Takahashi, Hirai, Mori, Kasamatsu; Hirotani leaves Thursday via Biratnagar and Cal (on Tokyo); others to Kathmandu via Namche early Feb. Most difficult part from C2->C3 - very steep, ice and rock mixed. C2 at 5900m C1 at 5000m BC 4100m 1st party left base Oct 20 for final assault. From Kangbachen Base Camp 16 Oct Sharphu Himal Started 27 Sept with 75 porters from Dharan. After 16 days (12 Oct) arrive base camp at 4150 meters. Wish to climb via East Face but could find no route there, so from SE Ridge and up col to South Face of Sharphu Glacier. 14th Oct established C1 just below Col at about 5000m. Return end Nov. Letter from T. Kasamatsu to Tamura post marked 19 Sept 1965 from Purnea gave return address as C/O British Camp Dharan, Eastern Nepal Ishihara - 10 Sept 63 Expedition's liaison officer Janardan Raj Bhandary (who says he was with Peter Taylor and that the Ang Tharkey with Sharphu Expedition is not same as with Herzog). Ishihara leaves Kathmandu for Calcutta today. Expedition leaves Calcutta for Biratnagar 16 Sept. Liaison officer and Sherpas fly Kathmandu-Biratnagar 15 Sept. Hirano and 3 others will come to KTM in Feb. Hirano - 3 Sept 63 Tokyo Metropolitan University and Osaka Prefecture University from Tokyo-Osaka. Osaka Prefecture University climbed Mt. Nupchu last year and discovered Sharphu whose exact height not known. So want try climb it instead; both Talung and Sharphu virgin peaks; both near Kangchenjunga (Talung on Sikkim-Nepal border; Sharphu little west of border). Leader and 2 members here in Kathmandu. Arrived yesterday. Rest are still in Japan. All arrive Calcutta about 9th Sept. Mid-Sept all to Biratnagar and thence to mountain. Each member doing our field of scientific work also. Also members except 68-year-old leader will climb. Reach base camp beginning Oct; mid or end Oct reach peak. Ishihara - 6 Sept Expedition Sherpas: Dorje Sherpa Ang Tharkey |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2443798 |
| Year | 1963 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | e side |
Members
15 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kenji Ishihara | M | - | Japan | Leader | - | PhD of engineering, Mgr of Tokyo Branch of Japanese Alpine Club | Details Other expeditions |
| Masahito Hirano | M | - | Japan | Deputy Leader | - | Bachelor of economy member of Namura Shipyard Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshihiro Hirotani | M | - | Japan | Climbing Leader | - | Bachelor of Science | Details Other expeditions |
| Susumu Hioki | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | Master of engineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Takayuki Hirai | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | Bachelor of Science | Details Other expeditions |
| Takao Ishinabe | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | Bachelor of Science | Details Other expeditions |
| Takuji Kasamatsu | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Chiharu Miyamoto | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | Bachelor of arts | Details Other expeditions |
| Michihiko Mori | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | Student at Osaka Prefectural University | Details Other expeditions |
| Chutaro Takahashi | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | Bachelor of Science, Vice president of Takahashi Manufacturing Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuzo Tatsumi | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | Student at Osaka Prefectural University | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Tharkay Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Tshering Sherpa | M | 1910 | Nepal | Sirdar | Darjeeling, India | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dorje Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kathmandu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Cook | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| SPH163301 | AAJ | Yoshizawa, Ichiro | - | - | 38:227 (1964) | - |
| SPH163301 | JAC | Hirano, Masahito | Sharphu and North-East Nepal, 1963-64 | - | 59:3-7 (1964) | - |
| SPH163301 | JAC | Hirano, Masahito | Sharphu and North-East Nepal, 1963-64 | - | 59:72-119 (1964) | - |
| SPH163301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196422701/Asia-Nepal-Sharphu | - | - | - |