Shey Shikhar | 1995 Recon (N and S sides)

A USA expedition to Shey Shikhar in 1995 via Recon (N and S sides), led by Geoffrey Tabin. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1625
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SHEY95301
Peak ID SHEY
Year 1995
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Recon (N and S sides)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Geoffrey Tabin
Sponsor American Shey Shikhar Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach Phoksumdo Khola
Basecamp Date 1995-09-21
Summit Date -
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 13
Termination Date 1995-10-04
Termination Reason 12
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 0
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Tso Karpo Kang (TSOK-953-01), Kang Yaja, Pk 5950, Pk 5602
Campsites BC(21/09,4600m),Smt-TsoKarpoKang(29/09,01/10),Smt-KangYaja(02/10)
Route Notes BC at 30 minutes north of Japanese '73 autumn - north of east Shey Shikhar. After BC, spent several days recce on northeast & east of south of Shey Shikhar to pass of 5300m south of mountain. Very loose rock, very scary, looked very dangerous from hanging glacier through mountain difficult. Then retreated to east to Pt 5602m directly north of Shey Shikhar & found it very loose rock ridge with downsloping slabs of bad rock; very dangerous. Back to BC & abandoned attempt on Shey Shikhar & turned attention to what members believe is Tso Karpo Kang: climber from south up rock wall (where found Japanese rope pitons) to a saddle on 28th. 29th 4 members & Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa & Krishna Bahadur Tamang up SW Buttress, 3000 ft ice; at about 5800m 3 members turned back because 2 members were either sick or not strong while Tabin & 3 Nepalese climbed SW Ridge which became less steep & on top at 1:30 pm of 29th & back to C1/biv at 5300m at 4:30 pm. 30th Tabin & Squier to BC; Ruoss & Normand to peak 5950m high just SW of C1 & SE of Kang & Tabin & Squier to BC; Ruoss & Normand 1st Oct climbed to top of Tsokarpo Kang by slightly different route & back to BC on 2nd. Tabin, 2 Sherpas and 2 Warings & Sinclair on 1st Oct to a camp at 4800m south of Kang Yaja & on 2nd on top via 1000 vertical feet of vertical rock scrambling, icefall 400-500 ft high to sloping glacier to snow ridge to south ridge to summit. Warings & Sinclair spent night at 4800m camp while while Tabin & Sherpas to BC. 3rd all in BC & climbing finished. Returned via Shey Gompa. Tso Karpo Kang (6556m) (2nd & 3rd ascents) 29 Sep (SW Ridge) by Tabin, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang 01 Oct (SE Face) by Ruoss,Normand Kang Yaja (5962m) (1st ascent) 02 Oct (S Ridge) by Waring III, Waring IV, Sinclair, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement 1st ascent of Kang Yaja
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 3570
Year 1995
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) recon (n and s sides)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bruce George Alexander Normand M 1966 UK Climber Hoenggerberg, Zurich, Switzerland Physicist Details Other expeditions
Steven John (Steve) Ruoss M 1954 USA Climber Atherton, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Michael C. Sinclair M 1940 USA Climber Orefield, Pennsylvania Cardio-thoracic surgeon Details Other expeditions
William H. (Billy) Squier M 1950 USA Climber New York, New York Writer & musician Details Other expeditions
Geoffrey Craig Tabin M 1956 USA Leader Burlington, Vermont Ophthalmologist Details Other expeditions
George Waring III M 1941 USA Climber Atlanta, Georgia Physician Details Other expeditions
George Waring IV M 1971 USA Climber Tucker, Georgia Student Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SHEY95301 AAJ Tabin, Geoff - - 70:274-278 (1996) -
SHEY95301 HJ Tabin, Geoff Shey Shikhar - 53:245-247 (1997) -
SHEY95301 HIGH - - - 161:40 (Apr 1996) -
SHEY95301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199627403/Asia-Nepal-Shey-Shikhar-Various-Ascents - - -
SHEY95301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/53/17/expeditions-and-notes-53/ - - -