Shartse | 1997 S Ridge at start of Lhotse Shar SE Ridge

A Russia expedition to Shartse in 1997 via S Ridge at start of Lhotse Shar SE Ridge, led by Alexandre Iakovenko. Summit reached on 25th April 1997. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2246
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SHAR97101
Peak ID SHAR
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge at start of Lhotse Shar SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Alexandre Iakovenko
Sponsor Russian Shanti Shikhar Expedition 1997
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-04-12
Summit Date 1997-04-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 16
Termination Date 1997-04-28
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned on 27 Apr due to snow and seracs and not enough rope
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 800
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Island Peak (26 April by Cherny, Brink) and Lhotse (LHOT-971-03)
Campsites BC(12/04,5290m),C1(14/04,5700m),C2(22/04,6200m),xxx(25,27/04,6400m)
Route Notes BC at point 5293m on National Geographic map ENE of Iceland Peak C1 on small South Ridge below point 6528m and east of 5901m at start of Lhotse Shar SE Ridge High point on small South Ridge. Had no time for acclimatization for alpine-style climb above C2. Had fixed 300m below C1 another 300m above C1; 200m more above C2 and needed 500m more. Bachkirov who had climbed Island Peak in January said Shanti Shikhar no problem. Just like Peak Lenin and team took only 500m rope with them. Had to buy more rope in Chhukung and still not enough. 700m above C2 easy walk on snow but below seracs and others difficulties made slow progress. This not a good route for descent from Lhotse Shar. Every day from 2:00 pm new snowfall for hours; morning clear but much avalanching in area. After climbing above finished, Baikovski, Koroteev and Cherny went to Lhotse for Lhotse-Lhotse Shar traverse (but Baikovski not on Lhotse permits and so may have problem going up from BC). Best route to Shanti is via Island Peak. Lhotse Shar ridge to 7100m and then either continue up ridge to Lhotse Shar's East Ridge or traverse east somewhere below it.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st attempt of mountains
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID LHOT97103
Checksum 2454136
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge at start of lhotse shar se ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yuri Baikovski M 1958 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Psychologist Details Other expeditions
Pavel Bonadyssenko M 1962 Russia Climber Irkutsk, Russia Produces mountaineering equipment Details Other expeditions
Ivan Brink M 1953 Russia Climber Rostov-on-Don, Russia Economist Details Other expeditions
Aleksander N. (Al) Iakovenko M 1960 Russia Leader Moscow, Russia Manager Details Other expeditions
Sergei Katachkov M 1957 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Private security guard Details Other expeditions
Andrei Larionov M 1962 Russia Climber Irkutsk, Russia Building engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Koroteev M 1955 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Car service manager Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny M 1938 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Carpenter Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.