Shartse | 2003 S Face

A Czech Republic expedition to Shartse in 2003 via S Face, led by Robin Baum. Summit reached on 12th October 2003. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4511
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SHAR03301
Peak ID SHAR
Year 2003
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders Robin Baum
Sponsor Czech Peak 38
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Chhukung Village
Basecamp Date 2003-09-19
Summit Date 2003-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 28
Termination Date 2003-10-17
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6160m due to avalanche danger and technical problems at crevasse
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1200
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/09,5250m),C1(24/09,5300m),C2(28/09,5800m),xxx(12/10,6100m)
Route Notes BC at 5250m below rock of Island peak's east side on Lhotse Shar Glacier C1 at 5300m Lhotse Shar Glacier's west side (just above glacier) C2 at 5800m just above Lhotse Glacier's west side xxx at 6100m at icefall of Lhotse Shar Glacier due south of summit. From C1 to C2 difficult rock pillar. From C2 was ice and snow, very dangerous for snow avalanches (Koreans had fatal avalanche on Lhotse Shar). Waited for avalanching to stop but didn't. Had avalanche hit fixed ropes above C1 and those had to be replaced. Stopped attempt when 3 who reached highest point found huge crevasses at the high point and above: 3-4m wide and 300m across the icefall and also great avalanche danger from big snow field above there and where planned C3 at about 6800m (snowfield 45-50 degrees). So no safe place for C3. Planned route above C3 to Peak 38's East Ridge. For skies, snow at and near East Ridge appeared to be very hard, perhaps icy, so not good; also below ridge route would be stepped and meant many jumps. For crevasses would have required ladders (had none) and more rope to fix (had finished rope they brought). Baum would like to return in 2-3 years with ladders, more rope and Sherpas to carry ropes and ladders. Another factor in decision to abandon climb was psychological effect of Korean's fatal avalanche.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Everest Adventure
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456503
Year 2003
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Robin Baum M 1969 Czech Republic Leader Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic Geodesist Details Other expeditions
Libor Chrastil M 1960 Czech Republic Exp Doctor Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Jana Hanzlikova F 1970 Czech Republic Climber Prague, Czech Republic Journalist Details Other expeditions
Jiri Kalousek M 1964 Czech Republic Climber Usti nad Orlici, Czech Republic Alpine rescuer Details Other expeditions
Lubos Klima M 1977 Czech Republic Climber Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Alice Korbova F 1971 Czech Republic Climber Prague, Czech Republic Manager of electric projects Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Priezozny M 1957 Czech Republic Climber Nejdek, Czech Republic Technician Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Smrz M 1965 Czech Republic Deputy Leader Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic Construction company owner Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SHAR03301 HIGH - - - 265:64 (Dec 2004) -