Shartse II | 1984 SW Face-S Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Shartse II in 1984 via SW Face-S Ridge, led by Lee Yong-Ho. Summit reached on 8th May 1984. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1057
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SHA284101
Peak ID SHA2
Year 1984
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Lee Yong-Ho
Sponsor Exp of Korean Alpine Guides Association - Nuptse, Shartse
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd claimed
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley->Chhukung
Basecamp Date 1984-04-17
Summit Date 1984-05-08
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 21
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1984-05-09
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Success claimed (reached Shartse II instead of Shartse?)
High Point (m) 7457
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Had permit for Nuptse West
Campsites BC(08/04,5350m),C1(19/04,5600m),C2(26/04,6100m),C3(29/04,6450m),C4(01/05,6600m),C5(03/05,6950m),C6(06/05,7050m),Biv(07/05,7250m),Smt(08/05)
Route Notes BC on Lhotse Shar Glacier (west of "a" in Glacier on Schneider Khumbu map). 1st try for top 4th May by 5 members and Nima Wangchu Sherpa. Reached 7350m on 4th May. Then a member fell 50m on difficult rock covered by soft snow and all returned to C4. 2nd summit attempt on 6th May by 2 other members and Nima Wangchu. Made C5 on 6th May; 7th May biv by these 3 at 7250m and 8th May all 3 on summit at 11:00 am and descended to C4 and BC on 9th May. No attempt to Nuptse. Rather late and 2 members feet frostbitten. Funds gone buying replacement baggage because of CCU (Calcutta) port strike. Very steep between C2 and C3 (70 degrees and more blue ice). Next most difficult part is near bivouac point. Above C3 is knife ridge. Entire route very steep and difficult zig-zag route.
Accidents Yoon Dae-Pyo fell when rock piton came but not hurt; Kwak Hyo-Khun frostbitten toes but didn't realize then (may not lose any parts); Dae-Pyo also frostnip
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449388
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-s ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nuru Wangchu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ok-Sum Hong M 1956 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jung-Ja Kim F 1951 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hyo-Kyun Kwak M 1952 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Yong-Ho Lee M 1952 S Korea Leader Kwang Myung, Seoul, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Byung-Won Park M 1954 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Engineer in printing company Details Other expeditions
Dae-Pyo Yoon M 1952 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nima Wangchu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Jung-Sik Hu M - S Korea Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SHA284101 AAJ Lee Yong-Ho - - 59:256-257 (1985) -
SHA284101 HJ Lee Youg Ho Shartse Expedition, 1984 - 41:143-145 (1983-1984) -
SHA284101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198525603/Asia-Nepal-Shartse-II - - -
SHA284101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/41/21/expeditions-and-notes-41/ - - -