Saula | 2022 SW Face-SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Saula in 2022 via SW Face-SW Ridge, led by Daijo Saito. Summit reached on 3rd May 2022. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10870
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SAUL22101
Peak ID SAUL
Year 2022
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Daijo Saito
Sponsor Japanese Saula Himal Expedition 2022
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Manaslu BC classic trail->Sho
Basecamp Date 2022-04-23
Summit Date 2022-05-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 12
Termination Date 2022-05-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6235
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/04,2880m),C1(01/05,4600m),C2(02/05,5469m),Smt(03/05)
Route Notes Approach: Manaslu BC classic trail->Sho BC 23/04 2880m at Sho village C1 01/05 4600m C2 02/05 5469m Smt 03/05 by both members. Acclimatization done on the route of ascent, up to C1. The basic route is the same than the 2018 Himalaya Camp Team (Daijo Saito was a member of it), just using this time 2 camps instead of 3. Then the route goes towards the col between Saula and Peak 6199m, ending via the SW Ridge. Thanks to the reconnaissance of 2018, the climb was made possible within a few days. Route is moderately difficult, requiring more stamina. 01 May: Sho village to C1 02 May: C1 to C2 03 May: C2 to summit to C2. The last 50m to the summit were an ice wall where the duet did some ice climbing (ice grade 3+). 04 May: C2 to Sho. 05 May: Left for the Manaslu circuit trek. Route: SW Face to SW Ridge Oxygen: Not taken, not used
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of Saula
Agency Hoshi Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464560
Year 2022
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-sw ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Daijo Saito M 1986 Japan Leader Kai-shi, Yamanashi, Japan Monk, Self-Defense Forces Details Other expeditions
Akihiro Shigenobu M 1985 Japan Climber Hyogoken, Japan - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SAUL22101 - - https://explorersweb.com/breaking-buddhist-monk-makes-first-ascent-of-saula-6235m-near-manaslu/ - - -
SAUL22101 AAJ Saito, Daijo Saula, First Ascent via Southwest Ridge - 97:327 (2023) -
SAUL22101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216337 - - -