Sanctuary Peak | 2024 S Face-W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Sanctuary Peak in 2024 via S Face-W Ridge, led by Ayumi Matsumoto. Summit reached on 19th October 2024. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11565
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SANC24301
Peak ID SANC
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Ayumi Matsumoto
Sponsor Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) Himalayan Camp 2024
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach See route notes
Basecamp Date 2024-10-13
Summit Date 2024-10-19
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 6
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2024-10-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6207
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/10,4647m),C1(17/10,5200m),Smt(19/10)
Route Notes Approach: Left KTM on 01/10. From KTM by car to Tripurakot (3 days). Jeep until end of the road, 1-2 hours after Tripurakot. Then start walking to BC via Hurikot, Toijum, Gauchaur, Toriparta, Rinsa. They got info about the approach from local people who had best info about way. BC 13/10 4647m at Kanjiroba BC (flat area in the Kanjiroba sanctuary, just west of Kanjiroba massif) C1 17/10 5200m Smt 19/10 by all members at 12:30 pm. On 18/10 went to glacier up to 5500m to get a good view of the route, back to C1 the same day. On 19/10 conditions were very good and they set off from C1 at 3:30 am. Had to cross an icefall shortly after C1, at 5300-5500m. Apart from that quite easy climb. Team roped up the whole ascent. Went north across the glacier and up the southern slope, until they gained the W Ridge, which they followed to the summit. On the summit at 12:30 pm. Stayed on the top for 15-20 minutes. Not so cold, not so windy, weather was sunny and pleasant. Down to C1 at approx. 5 pm. On 20/10 to BC. No Sherpa support, just a guide until base camp. Left BC on 28/10. After summit they had to stay one week in BC because couldn’t call porters. Satellite phone didn’t work. On 28/10 left BC. Same caravan route back to Hurikot (31/10). To Jumla by Jeep, and bus to Surkhet. From Surkhet bus to KTM. Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Records: First Ascent
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Khangri Trek
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465912
Year 2024
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-w ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ayumi Matsumoto F 1990 Japan Leader Nagano , Japan IT engineer Details Other expeditions
Yasuhiro Hanatani M 1976 Japan Climber Hokuto, Yamanashi, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yo Hasegawa M 1995 Japan Climber Suita, Osaka, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Ai Hatakeyama F 1991 Japan Climber Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yudai Hiratsuka M 1996 Japan Climber Fujimi, Saitama, Japan - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SANC24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/japanese-students-bag-first-ascent-of-sanctuary-peak/ - - -