Saldim West | 2016 S Face

A Romania expedition to Saldim West in 2016 via S Face, led by Vlad Capusan. Summit reached on 31st October 2016. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9347
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SALW16301
Peak ID SALW
Year 2016
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Romania
Leaders Vlad Capusan
Sponsor Snowy Horizon Saldim (Peak 5) Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2016
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach By helicopter from Khumbu
Basecamp Date 2016-10-28
Summit Date 2016-10-31
Summit Time 1410
Summit Days 3
Total Days 5
Termination Date 2016-11-02
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6388
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Kyajo Ri (Oct 25) via SE Ridge
Campsites BC(28/10,4200m),Biv(30/10,5800m),Smt(31/10),Biv(31/10,5900m)
Route Notes Capusan and Torok first went to Khumbu and climbed Kyajo Ri by the 2006 American route from Oct 22 to 25. Then they flew to Makalu region arriving at the base of Saldim on 28 Oct. After waiting a day for bad weather, the started their 3-day alpine-style ascent on 30 Oct. They bivouaced the first night in a crevasse at 5800m, then continued on to the summit the next topping out at 2:10 pm after traversing the final ridge to the summit. They descended to 5900m for an overnight bivouac before continuing down the base camp on 1 Nov. 26 Oct: had helicopter flight to Makalu Barun valley, but there they realized their map was wrong, the peak coveted line lying in an other valley. After considerable efforts and thanks to the maps sent by Doug Scott, the duet and its team reached the base of the line on 28 Oct. Base camp at 4200m reached on 28 Oct. 30 Oct: started to climb. Rock difficulties up to 6a+ that day on solid granite. Climb stopped that day because of bad weather. Bivouac in a crevasse at 5800m. 31 Oct: after a very cold night (-27°), went trough upper wall in 6 pitches with difficulties up to M5-6 and W4. From top of the wall, found a thin ridge which led in 3 hours to the top, reached at 2:10 pm (Nepali time). Altimeter measured 6421m. Back to a bivy around 5900m that day, after a 15 hours climb in very cold temperatures (-25 to -30°C). 01 Nov: after 20 rappels, duet got back to BC. It's the first ascent of the peak. The route "Romanian flame" is 1600m high with difficulties up to 6a/M5,6/AI4/90°.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Snowy Horizon Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461239
Year 2016
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vlad Capusan M 1990 Romania Leader Cluj, Romania Artist & entrepreneur Details Other expeditions
Zsolt Torok M 1973 Romania Climber Arad, Romania Professional alpinist & alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SALW16301 - - http://desnivel.com/expediciones/primera-del-saldim-ri-6374-m-para-los-rumanos-zsolt-torok-y-vlad-capusan-en-nepal - - -
SALW16301 - - http://kathmandupost.ekantipur.com/news/2016-11-09/two-romanians-ascend-peak-5-for-first-time.html - - -
SALW16301 - - https://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/2016/11/romanian-duo-bags-first-ascent-of-peak.html - - -
SALW16301 - - http://vladcapusan.ro/peak-5-first-ascent/ - - -
SALW16301 AAJ Capusan, Vlad Peak 5, Southwest Pillar - 91:329-330 (2017) -
SALW16301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214221/Peak-5-Southwest-Pillar - - -