Saipal | 1998 NW Glacier to NE Ridge

A USA expedition to Saipal in 1998 via NW Glacier to NE Ridge, led by Rebecca Bendick. Summit reached on 4th November 1998. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	3192
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	SAIP98302
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1998
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	NW Glacier to NE Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	USA
Leaders	Rebecca Bendick
Sponsor	American Saipal Gravity Expedition
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Surkhet->Simikot->NW along Humla Karnali R->S on small R->Chala
Basecamp Date	1998-10-28
Summit Date	1998-11-04
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	7
Total Days	9
Termination Date	1998-11-06
Termination Reason	5
Termination Notes	Abandoned at 6700m due to deep powder snow
High Point (m)	6700
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	0
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	2
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(23/10,4200m),ABC(30/10,5100m),Biv(01/11,5900m),Biv(02/11,6200m),xxx(04/11,6700m)
Route Notes	BC north of mountain and its north glacier ABC between north and northwest glacier Biv above 2nd Saipal icefall of northwest glacier (in snow crevasse) Biv at plateau High point on NE Ridge. Decided not to try NE Ridge because there was lot of new snow (1.5m of new snow) on it and it was long ridge. Reached ridge at highest point on 4 Nov where there were 2m of snow. Had been big snowstorm 2 days before reaching BC. Turned back because of "bottomless" powder snow at 6700m; cold winds now. Slept 4th at 6200m bivvy and 5th at ABC. Would have climbed NE Ridge if snow not been so deep. Would like to go back to same route.
Accidents	-
Achievement	-
Agency	Peak Promotion
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2454650
Year	1998
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	nw glacier to ne ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	23020
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP98302
Member ID	01
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1998
Season	3
First Name	Rebecca (Becky)
Last Name	Bendick
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1972
Calculated Age	26
Citizenship	USA
Status	Leader
Residence	Winter Park, Florida
Occupation	Geological researcher
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6700
Summit Date 1	1998-11-04
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	2439410
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	rebecca (becky) bendick
Year of Birth	1972
Year	1998
Age at Expedition	26
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	23021
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP98302
Member ID	02
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1998
Season	3
First Name	Michael David
Last Name	Dugan
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1973
Calculated Age	25
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Davis, California
Occupation	Biologist & geologist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6700
Summit Date 1	1998-11-04
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	2439907
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	michael david dugan
Year of Birth	1973
Year	1998
Age at Expedition	25
Role	Member

2 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Rebecca (Becky) Bendick	F	1972	USA	Leader	Winter Park, Florida	Geological researcher	Details Other expeditions
Michael David Dugan	M	1973	USA	Climber	Davis, California	Biologist & geologist	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	5282
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	SAIP98302
Reference ID	01
Year	1998
Type	3
Journal	HIGH
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1999
Language	-
Citation	198:42 (May 1999)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
SAIP98302	HIGH	-	-	-	198:42 (May 1999)	-