Saipal | 1998 W Ridge from N

A Japan expedition to Saipal in 1998 via W Ridge from N, led by Ayumi Nozawai. Summit reached on 7th October 1998. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3155
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SAIP98301
Peak ID SAIP
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge from N
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Ayumi Nozawai
Sponsor Team Saipal 1998
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Surkhet->Simikot->Chola
Basecamp Date 1998-09-14
Summit Date 1998-10-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 26
Termination Date 1998-10-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7030
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/09,4200m),ABC(17/09,4800m),C2(04/10,5800m),Smt(07/10)
Route Notes BC at north end ABC northwest Glacier C2 at Col between Firnkopf and Saipal. 20 Sept up into icefall above (and south of) NW Glacier but too dangerous (avalanche and falling rock) so turned back at about 5100m and back to C1/ABC and 21st to BC to rest. 5 days at BC waiting for good weather again (snow/rain these days). 27 Sept to another route trying to reach NE Ridge but very steep snow and rock icefall glacier below ridge and ridge very long, so abandoned this line also. 29th to BC from C1/ABC. Again bad weather and waiting for improvement. 3rd Oct to C1. 4th Oct up new route on east side of NW Glacier icefall and made C2 at Col between Firnkopf and Saipal on Saipal's West Ridge. 5th made attempt on summit but windy and couldn't find good route quickly and was cold and windy, so stopped 200m from top and returned to C1. 6th rest in C2. 7th next attempt on top (summit by only 2 members since 1 member got eye problem on 5th). Found good route up last 200m and reached summit (again wind and very cold). Slept in C2. 8th to BC.
Accidents Furya eye problem (altitude?); all 3 members slight frostbite
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454622
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge from n

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tomoyuki Furuya M 1972 Japan Climber Kazo, Saitama, Japan University of geography Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Iwazaki M 1960 Japan Climber Ashikaga, Tochigi, Japan Does various odd jobs (guide, woodworking, etc) Details Other expeditions
Ayumi Nozawai M 1964 Japan Leader Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Does various odd jobs (restaurant cook, guide, etc) Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SAIP98301 HJ Ayumi, N. Saipal Expedition, 1998 - 55:226-228 (1999) -
SAIP98301 HIGH - - - 198:42 (May 1999) -
SAIP98301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/55/18/expeditions-and-notes-55/ - - -