Saipal | 1992 NE Ridge

A UK expedition to Saipal in 1992 via NE Ridge, led by Chuck Evans. Summit reached on 15th May 1992. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1079
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SAIP92101
Peak ID SAIP
Year 1992
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Chuck Evans
Sponsor British Saipal Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Ireland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-04-26
Summit Date 1992-05-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1992-05-26
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5700m due to lack of time
High Point (m) 5700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 100
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/04,3650m),ABC(29/04,3850m),C1(03/05,4750m),C2(10/05,5100m),xxx(15/05,5700m)
Route Notes BC at 3 miles down valley ABC at head of glacier at bottom of East Face C1 at Col C2 on col where ridge runs north into Humla. Huge avalanches constantly coming down all across east face, which would have given access to NE Ridge or bad icefall. Tried to get round to north side of NE Ridge, which involved crossing series of ridges via their col or along these ridges. When reached C2 realized had to go down again, cross icefalls and more ridges so too long a route ahead for time available. If choosing to do this route again, would approach from north to begin with - would be a nice route. On 15th decided to abandon this approach and explore south side of East Face as reconnaissance. 16 May descending below C2; Tenzing fell but Ok; Nuru slid/stopped, fell down gully and 10 minutes later C Evans did same and both landed on lip of bergschrund. Nuru evacuated by helicopter.
Accidents Nuru broke foot and ankle
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452280
Year 1992
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Caroline Purkhardt Evans F 1961 UK Climber Witley, Surrey, England Social scientist, researcher & lecturer on social issues Details Other expeditions
Charles (Chuck) Evans M 1959 UK Leader Witley, Surrey, England Accountant Details Other expeditions
Robert (Frank) Evans M 1966 UK Climber Bromwich, W Midlands, England Structural technician Details Other expeditions
Matthew Heffer M 1965 UK Climber Norwich, Norfolk, England Engineer (North Sea oil) Details Other expeditions
John Holland M 1961 Ireland Climber Ballincar, Sligo, Ireland Marble installation foreman Details Other expeditions
Julia Wood F 1960 UK Climber Godalming, Surrey, Scotland Solicitor Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SAIP92101 HJ Evans, Chuck Saipal, 1992 - 49:182-184 (1991-1992) -
SAIP92101 AAJ Evans, Chuck - - 67:238 (1993) -
SAIP92101 AJ Evans, Chuck The Other Side of Nepal - 99:81-86 (1994) -
SAIP92101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199323803/Asia-Nepal-Saipal-Attempt - - -
SAIP92101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/49/24/saipal-1992/ - - -
SAIP92101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1994_files/AJ%201994%2081-86%20Evans%20Saipal.pdf - - -