Saipal | 1990 NE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Saipal in 1990 via NE Ridge, led by Gaston Zoller. Summit reached on 26th October 1990. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 648
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SAIP90301
Peak ID SAIP
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Gaston Zoller
Sponsor Expedition N Saipal 1990
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France
Approach Kailang Khola
Basecamp Date 1990-09-19
Summit Date 1990-10-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 37
Total Days 39
Termination Date 1990-10-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7030
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Saipal East Humla (1st ascent)
Campsites BC(19/09,4050m),C1(05/10,5100m),C2(09/10,5700m),C3(12/10,6250m),Biv(25/10,6500m),Smt(26/10)
Route Notes BC at North Saipal Glacier at start of Karsang Khola C2 on NE Ridge (same site as German's camps) C3 on NE Ridge. Germans came a week later than Swiss-French, came up there fixed ropes and put camps at same sites. "A little human problem - 2 expeditions on same route is little problem." Big snow and wind storm on night of 12th and for 2 days impossible to move in fog and avalanche danger. Afterwards very clear and all white. 15th to C1. Now 3 times tried to get to C3. On 24th Oct Montaz, Zoller, Tendi Sherpa and Rinzi Sherpa from BC to C2, 25th Montaz, Zoller and Tendi from C2 to biv at 6500m, and 26th to summit. Zoller had stomach problem and stopped 1 hour before summit (6900m) from main summit. Montaz, Zoller and Tendi slept at biv 26th and on 27th to C1. All members left BC 28th Oct.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Pabil Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451711
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Georges Corsat M 1922 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Genevieve Fruchier F 1944 France Climber Olargues, Herault, France Nurse Details Other expeditions
Jacques Montaz M 1951 France Climber Aussois, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Muller M 1957 Switzerland Climber Vandoeuvres, Geneva, Switzerland Geologist & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christophe Peretti M 1960 Switzerland Climber Petit-Lancy, Geneva, Switzerland Telecommunications engineer Details Other expeditions
Wladimir Tilsenkoff M 1943 France Deputy Leader Geneva, Switzerland International civil servant (GATT) Details Other expeditions
Gaston Zoller M 1956 Switzerland Leader Geneva, Switzerland Archeologist Details Other expeditions
Tendi Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SAIP90301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:245 (1991) -
SAIP90301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199124503/Asia-Nepal-Saipal - - -