Saipal | 1988 N Face (to 5200m)

A Switzerland expedition to Saipal in 1988 via N Face (to 5200m), led by Denis Bertholet. Summit reached on 22nd October 1988. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 837
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SAIP88301
Peak ID SAIP
Year 1988
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (to 5200m)
Route 2 NE Ridge (to 5800m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Denis Bertholet
Sponsor Swiss Saipal Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France
Approach Simrikot->Kermi->Yangar (Yalgang where got yaks)->Chale
Basecamp Date 1988-10-16
Summit Date 1988-10-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5800m due to slab avalanche danger and lack of time
High Point (m) 5800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/10,4100m),ABC(18/10,4750m),C1(20/10,5200m),C2(21/10,5560m),xxx(22/10,5800m)
Route Notes BC at Kaireng Khola bottom of North Saipal Glacier ABC at moraine of North Saipal Glacier C1 at bottom of North Face C2 just below a col on NE Ridge High point at NE Ridge. Had to abandon because snow conditions bad with snow-slab danger on north side and had to leave BC not later than 24th Oct north side very steep, but is possible to climb. Put C1 at bottom of face planing to try face but then slab avalanche came down. Team then shifted route to NE Ridge when snow was deep and slowed progress. Needed 1 more week and several more camps. NE Ridge to pass not difficult but above 5800m technically difficult, steep in one section, rock with 3 summits in 3 km from pass to summit (curving ridge). Only Montaz and Zoller did any climbing above moraine.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st Swiss attempt, new route
Agency Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450975
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (to 5200m)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Denis Bertholet M 1929 Switzerland Leader Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Georges Corsat M 1922 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Helen Corsat F 1929 Switzerland BC Manager Geneva, Switzerland Secretary Details Other expeditions
Christine Coville F 1926 France Climber Paris, France Unemployed Details Other expeditions
Michel Patrik Gaillard M 1948 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jacques Montaz M 1951 France Deputy Leader Aussois, Savoie, France Tour guide Details Other expeditions
Jacques Revaclier M 1933 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Attorney Details Other expeditions
Gaston Zoller M 1956 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Archeologist Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
SAIP88301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 63:225 (1989) -
SAIP88301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198922501/Asia-Nepal-Saipal-Attempt - - -