Saipal | 1985 W Ridge
A Spain expedition to Saipal in 1985 via W Ridge, led by Joaquim Prunes. Summit reached on 22nd October 1985. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 196 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | SAIP85301 |
| Peak ID | SAIP |
| Year | 1985 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Ridge |
| Route 2 | SW Face up; W Ridge down |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Spain |
| Leaders | Joaquim Prunes |
| Sponsor | Expedicio Himalaya-85 to Saipal |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 2nd,4th |
| Ascent 2 | 3rd |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | France |
| Approach | Kando->Ghat Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1985-09-26 |
| Summit Date | 1985-10-22 |
| Summit Time | 1300 |
| Summit Days | 26 |
| Total Days | 29 |
| Termination Date | 1985-10-25 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7030 |
| Traverse | True |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1600 |
| Total Members | 13 |
| Summit Members | 9 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(26/09,4150m),C1(29/09,4950m),C2(05/10,5800m),C3(21/10,6500m),Smt(22,24-25/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at 4150m on east moraine of Saipal Glacier; 150m above Austrian, Japanese BCs and because from here can see mountain C1 at 4950m at top of a pyramid C2 at 5800m just above West Col on West Ridge C3 at 6500m at West Ridge shoulder. 5th to 16th Oct heavy snow. 5 Oct C2 pitched but no one slept there. All in BC during this period with heavys snow breaking tents. Up again 18th Oct and actually slept in C2 for first time on 20th Oct. 1st summit success on 22nd Oct at 1:00 via West Ridge. C1 to 2 greatest difficulties: 1st 300m rock wall then up to 55-degree snow and ice couloir. Fixed 1600m rope from C1 to C2. Along W Ridge 400m of 45 degrees and then 200m of knife-edge to C3. Immediately above C3 easy until last 200m step of 45 degrees below summit. 22nd Oct team returned to C3 that night in good but windy weather. 23rd to BC. 21st Bros Busquet and Angeles Soler left C1 at 3 am, bivouacked at 6000m on SW Face, 22nd biv 6450m, 23rd bivouac in cave at 7000m at lesser summit. All 3 descended together to BC. Wall starts at 45 degrees and most is 55 degrees in deep snow requiring tiring step-making; at 6700m blue ice only about 50m. |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | 1st traverse; new routes; 1st Spanish and French ascents |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449876 |
| Year | 1985 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Josep Aced Masjoan | M | 1948 | Spain | Exp Doctor | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jorge Agullo Colomer | M | 1953 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jordi Angles Soler | M | 1956 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Jordi Badiella Aguilera | M | 1959 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Textile worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Serge Philippe Benet Mas | M | 1951 | France | Climber | Andorra-la-Vella, Andorra | Sports shopkeeper | Details Other expeditions |
| Antonio (Toni) Bros Busquet | M | 1957 | Spain | Deputy Leader | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Francesc (Quico) Dalmases Cunill | M | 1957 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Ski patrol member | Details Other expeditions |
| Adria Font Alcaniz | M | 1945 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Electronics technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Miquel Llonch Massanes | M | 1963 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Ski patrol member | Details Other expeditions |
| Frederic Parera Avellandea | M | 1957 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Metallurgist | Details Other expeditions |
| Joaquim (Kim) Prunes Santamaria | M | 1953 | Spain | Leader | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Presents film shows to children | Details Other expeditions |
| Narcis Serrat Comerma | M | 1954 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Bookseller | Details Other expeditions |
| Francesc Zapater Coma | M | 1952 | Spain | Climber | Matadepera, Barcelona, Spain | Electrical technician | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| SAIP85301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 60:252 (1986) | - |
| SAIP85301 | MM | - | - | - | 108:13 (Mar 1986) | - |
| SAIP85301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198625202/Asia-IndiaGarhwal-Kamet-Probable-Ascent-and-Tragedy-1984 | - | - | - |