Saipal | 1954 WSW Ridge of Firnkopf-W Ridge of Saipal

A Austria expedition to Saipal in 1954 via WSW Ridge of Firnkopf-W Ridge of Saipal, led by Rudolf Jonas. Summit reached on 29th May 1954. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	3042
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	WSW Ridge of Firnkopf-W Ridge of Saipal
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Austria
Leaders	Rudolf Jonas
Sponsor	Austrian Himalyan Expedition to West Nepal
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Pithoragarh->Seti Khola->Ghat Khola
Basecamp Date	1954-05-08
Summit Date	1954-05-29
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	21
Total Days	37
Termination Date	1954-06-14
Termination Reason	6
Termination Notes	Abandoned due to member death and approaching monsoon
High Point (m)	6300
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	8
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	7
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Attempted Firnkopf (FIRN-541-01)
Campsites	BC(08/05,4175m),C1,C2(c5800m),C3(29/05,6300m),xxx(6300m)
Route Notes	Attempted Saipal from west side: Plan was to climb WSW Ridge of Firnkopf -> Firnkopf summit -> W Ridge of Saipal -> Saipal summit. Stopped short of summit of Firnkopf. Karl Reiss died of pneumonia on Firnkopf.
Accidents	1 member died of illness
Achievement	-
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2438376
Year	1954
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	wsw ridge of firnkopf-w ridge of saipal

Members

Field	Value
ID	22035
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Member ID	01
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
First Name	Rudolf
Last Name	Jonas
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1909
Calculated Age	45
Citizenship	Austria
Status	Leader
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1909-1962) Died 5 February 1962
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2416488
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	rudolf jonas
Year of Birth	1909
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	45
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	23478
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Member ID	08
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
First Name	Karl
Last Name	Reiss
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Austria
Status	Climber
Residence	Vienna, Austria
Occupation	Automechanic
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1954-05-29
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(....-1954) Died 31 May 1954 on Firnkopf from pneumonia
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	0
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	karl reiss
Year of Birth	-
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26236
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Member ID	04
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
First Name	Raimund
Last Name	Heinzel
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	25
Citizenship	Austria
Status	Climber
Residence	Vienna, Austria
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1954-05-29
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	0
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	raimund heinzel
Year of Birth	-
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26237
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Member ID	05
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
First Name	Fritz
Last Name	Moravec
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1922
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	Austria
Status	Climber
Residence	Vienna, Austria
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	5800
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1922-1997) Died 17 March 1997 in Vienna
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2421250
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	fritz moravec
Year of Birth	1922
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26238
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Member ID	03
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
First Name	Hans
Last Name	Chval
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	22
Citizenship	Austria
Status	Climber
Residence	Vienna, Austria
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1954-05-29
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	0
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	hans chval
Year of Birth	-
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26239
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Member ID	07
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
First Name	Karl
Last Name	Prein
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	26
Citizenship	Austria
Status	Climber
Residence	Leoben, Styria, Austria
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	5800
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	0
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	karl prein
Year of Birth	-
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26240
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Member ID	06
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
First Name	Josef
Last Name	Pfeffer
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	Austria
Status	Climber
Residence	Vienna, Austria
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1954-05-29
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	0
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	josef pfeffer
Year of Birth	-
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	26241
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Member ID	02
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
First Name	Hannes
Last Name	Beyer
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	Austria
Status	Climber
Residence	Vienna, Austria
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	5800
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	0
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	hannes beyer
Year of Birth	-
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	51337
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Member ID	09
Peak ID	SAIP
Year	1954
Season	1
First Name	Lhakpa Tsering
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	Sirdar
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	5800
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	HC #167
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	167
Checksum	0
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	lhakpa tsering sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1954
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Rudolf Jonas	M	1909	Austria	Leader	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Karl Reiss	M	-	Austria	Climber	Vienna, Austria	Automechanic	Details Other expeditions
Raimund Heinzel	M	-	Austria	Climber	Vienna, Austria	-	Details Other expeditions
Fritz Moravec	M	1922	Austria	Climber	Vienna, Austria	-	Details Other expeditions
Hans Chval	M	-	Austria	Climber	Vienna, Austria	-	Details Other expeditions
Karl Prein	M	-	Austria	Climber	Leoben, Styria, Austria	-	Details Other expeditions
Josef Pfeffer	M	-	Austria	Climber	Vienna, Austria	-	Details Other expeditions
Hannes Beyer	M	-	Austria	Climber	Vienna, Austria	-	Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	Sirdar	-	-	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	904
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Reference ID	01
Year	1954
Type	1
Journal	-
Author	Jonas, Rudolf
Title	Ho, Pasang!
Publisher	Buchergilde Gutenberg, Wien
Publication Date	1954
Language	German
Citation	-
Yak 94	J128
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	905
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Reference ID	02
Year	1954
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1955
Language	-
Citation	29:177-178 (1955)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	13352
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	SAIP54101
Reference ID	03
Year	1954
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195517700/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Saipal
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
SAIP54101	-	Jonas, Rudolf	Ho, Pasang!	Buchergilde Gutenberg, Wien	-	J128
SAIP54101	AAJ	-	-	-	29:177-178 (1955)	-
SAIP54101	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195517700/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Saipal	-	-	-