Saipal | 2018 SW Face

A USA expedition to Saipal in 2018 via SW Face, led by Forrest Coots. Summit reached on 21st October 2018. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10132
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID SAIP18301
Peak ID SAIP
Year 2018
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Forrest Coots
Sponsor American-Canadian Saipal Ski Expedition 2018
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach See route notes
Basecamp Date 2018-10-05
Summit Date 2018-10-21
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 23
Termination Date 2018-10-28
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to altitude, frostbite and exhaustion
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/10,3995m),ABC(10/10,4725m),C1(20/10,5400m),xxx(21/10,6400m)
Route Notes Approach: Flight to Dhanghadi, 12 hour drive to Chainpur, 2 hour drive to Talkot, trekking from Talkot. BC 05/10 3955m ABC 10/10 4725m C1 20/10 5400m in bergschrund HPt 21/10 6400m by all members. Climb abandoned on 21/10 due to altitude, frostbite and exhaustion. Alpine-style ascent, no oxygen, no Sherpas. Planned ski descent from summit. SW Face steep face, a lot of snow (40cm), good climbing 45°-60°. Team climbed unroped. Highpoint 6400m on 21/10. They started from C1 at 5:30 am. Reached highpoint at approximately 10:30 am. Sayers had slight frostbite at toes (nerve damage, but no lasting damage expected). Everyone felt tired and struggled with altitude. Everyone back to BC at 6:30 pm. A lot of spindrift with small avalanches between highpoint and C1. They hired porters from the region. "The west is quite new to tourism, no porter structure like at other areas. Porters carry a much lighter load." Porter fatal accident happened on 30/10 between 3-4 pm. A porter called Puna (from Talkot) on the way out at 2200m fell down the trail for about 600 feet. It was a wide trail, but with a steep edge. He was alone at the time of accident. According to police statement he tripped on a rock and lost his footing. Rest of porter were upset especially his brother. He was most angry and the others were following. They blamed members for the death and threatened to kill them. They picked up rocks and threatened to stone them to death, but didn't throw. In total 15-20 porters. Members and porters recovered the body with ropes. Team left BC on 28/10. Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Fixed rope: None
Accidents 1 porter (Puna) fell of the trail on 30/10 at 2200m during return march
Achievement -
Agency Shangri-La Nepal Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463671
Year 2018
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Forrest Cameron Coots M 1981 USA Leader Mount Shasta, California Professional athlete Details Other expeditions
Tyler N. Jones M 1983 USA Climber Tacoma, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
William S. Lascelles M 1985 USA Climber San Pedro, California - Details Other expeditions
Chad D. Sayers M 1978 Canada Climber Whistler, British Colombia Professional athlete Details Other expeditions
Bernard Roe Sturgulewski Jr M 1986 USA Climber Anchorage, Alaska - Details Other expeditions
Jason Neil Thompson M 1980 USA Climber Bozeman, Montana Photographer Details Other expeditions
Puna M - Nepal Porter Talkot Porter Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.