Rolwaling Kang Shar | 2023 SE Ridge

A Russia expedition to Rolwaling Kang Shar in 2023 via SE Ridge, led by Yuri Koshelenko. Summit reached on 23rd October 2023. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11564
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ROLS23301
Peak ID ROLS
Year 2023
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Yuri Koshelenko
Sponsor 7 Summits Club Rolwaling Kang Expedition 2023
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Chhetchhet, Na, Trakarding, Drolambau to bottom part Tashi Lapcha
Basecamp Date 2023-10-14
Summit Date 2023-10-23
Summit Time 0900
Summit Days 9
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6645
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/10,5400m),ABC(19/10),Biv1(20/10,5700m),Biv2(21/10,6250m),Biv3(22/10,6550m),Smt(23/10)
Route Notes Team left high camp at 7 am on 23 Oct, summited at 9 am, stayed about 30 minutes, then descended to ABC at about 8 pm. We did first ascent on the East Summit Rolwaling Kang, right name I think Rolwaling Khang Shar 6645m. We did climb on the SE contrfort, weather been good, but very cold. From 7 Summits Club: Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky named the route of the first ascent on the summit of Rowling Khang Shar "Katana" http://7summitsclub.com/news/all/item_16472/ On October 23, at 9 o'clock Nepali time, Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky made the first ever ascent on the summit of Rolwaling Kang Shar, with a height of 6645 meters. The length of the route is about 1800m. Three bivouacs. To ABC from the base under the Tashi Lapcha Pass is an 8-hour walk along the Talomban glacier [Dolombao]. "The buttress consists of destroyed granite, it is good that it is fused with ice in many places." Yuri Koshelenko (mountain.ru): The route "Katana" to Rolvaling Kang Shar, why katana, yes, because it is associated with duty, with the harsh rules of military valor. "Katana" is a samurai sword... When Alexey and I entered climbing mode, we managed to get out of it only after reaching the top. If I was the first to work on Fang in our previous first ascent, then Alexey was in the lead on this route for the entire rocky part. He was very good at passing long intricate sections of rocks. Alexey brought with him a completely new Vento equipment, skillfully used it, showed a high level of climbing technique. Sections 5 and 5 + k. sI. M4, M5. We all went free climbing, without using fixed ropes. I happened to be the first to climb on the day of reaching the top through complex conglomerates of crests and mushrooms from icicles and empty snow.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465504
Year 2023
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yuri Koshelenko M 1963 Russia Leader Sochi, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Aleksei Lonchinskiy M 1982 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ROLS23301 - - https://7summitsclub.com/news/all/item_16472/ - - -
ROLS23301 - - https://explorersweb.com/russians-climb-rolwaling-kang-shar/ - - -
ROLS23301 AAJ Koshelenko, Yuri Rolwaling Kang Shar, First Ascent, via Southeast Ridge - 98:316-317 (2024) -
ROLS23301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216818 - - -