Rokapi | 2020 S Ridge to S Peak to Main Smt via SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Rokapi in 2020 via S Ridge to S Peak to Main Smt via SE Ridge, led by John Kelley. Summit reached on 23rd December 2020. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10744
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ROKA20401
Peak ID ROKA
Year 2020
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge to S Peak to Main Smt via SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders John Kelley
Sponsor Rokapi Winter Expedition 2020-2021
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach See route notes
Basecamp Date 2020-11-20
Summit Date 2020-12-23
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 33
Total Days 35
Termination Date 2020-12-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6468
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/11),ABC(20/12,4873m),Biv1(21/12,5297m),Biv2(22/12,5663m),Smt(23/12)
Route Notes Approach: Bus to Dhangdi, Jeep via Lama Bagar to Makarighat, trekked onward Kandeswari, Ghajir, Chhetti, open camp at 3920m. Base camp put up and left climbing gears on 19 Nov at 4380m near the stream below the S Face of Kapchuli rocky field with patches of grass. Then went down to the open camp and slept there. That night Lieber left the camp. BC slept on 20 Nov. 01 Dec went down to Chhetti spent night there. 02 Dec climbed up to BC. Snow falling for about a week. 09 Dec hiked up to 4873m and left gears there and back to BC. 20 Dec slept 4873m. 21 Dec summit push to camp at 5297m. 22 Dec camp at 5663m slept there. Summited South Peak of Kapchuli (6050m). Continued up to the South Ridge 6000m col between main peak and the sub-peak slept there. Next day 23 Dec started climbing at around 3:30 am and got to the summit between 4-4:30 pm. Weather was cloudy and some wind at the beginning it was clear sky. Stayed on summit for about 5 minutes. There is picture of going toward the summit, but no picture of summit due to dead battery. Back to col camp around 9 pm and slept there. Next day went down to BC. Left BC on 25 Dec. Route: S Face via S Ridge from the south peak side on south side.
Accidents -
Achievement 2nd ascent of the main peak, 1st ascent via south route, 1st winter ascent
Agency Luxury Holiday Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464287
Year 2020
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge to s peak to main smt via se ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
John Patrick Kelley M 1977 USA Leader Juneau, Alaska Explosives blaster (for roads) Details Other expeditions
Benjamin Edward Lieber M 1994 USA Climber Alaska - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ROKA20401 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay Api Himal, Rokali, New Route and First Winter Ascent - 96:274-275 (2022) -
ROKA20401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216016 - - -
ROKA20401 HCN Griffin, Lindsay Rokapi (Kap Chuli), New Route and First Winter Ascent - 45:13-14 (Sept 2022) -